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The Beach

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Bootleg Boulder 
Lunkers, The 
Sex on the Beach boulder 

The Beach Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.66311, -89.51158 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,083
Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JBroom on Jan 19, 2011
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]


The Beach is yet another collection of great sandstone boulders in southern Illinois that are fun to play on! This collection sits along side the mighty Mississippi River for a stretch of a half of a mile or so. There are currently approximately 70-80 established boulder problems with possibilities for more. The rock is pretty high quality and river polished. The landings range from perfect soft sand to medium sized, ankle breaking talus with a few pads and spotters coming in handy more often than not. The Beach can feel cooler than other areas in the summer due to the open nature of the boulders in contrast to other areas in So Ill buried in the woods seeming to trap in the humidity. This coupled with the river a stones throw away can make for somewhat comfortable summertime conditions for a session especially in the mornings and evenings. One drawback to the beach is the fact that the number of problems that are climbable can change from day to day due to changes in the water levels and the fact that the boulders can border the river. For current water levels check - Mississippi River - Grand Tower, IL. Please consult "Sandstone Warrior" by Matt Bliss for a great comprehensive guidebook on The Beach and many other areas in So Ill and Elephant Rocks, MO

Getting There 

Park where the map indicates on this mountain project page. From there follow the atv trail up and around the grain silo location. The walk takes about 15 minutes and it puts you out on an old road. This leads directly to the boulders.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.4 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Beach:
Jimbo's   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Sex on the Beach boulder
Sex on the Beach   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 12'   Sex on the Beach boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Beach

Featured Route For The Beach
Rock Climbing Photo: Sticking the big throw to the first crimp

Proud Mary V9 7C  Illinois : The Beach : Sex on the Beach boulder
This extremely overhung line follows incut crimpers to the top of the boulder. Starting on two small jugs, either explode up and right to a small but positive crimp or reach your left hand to a bad slopey edge and lock off to the incut crimp. From here, get your left foot very high, and get left hand to a small gaston far away, using the incut intermediate next to it or just going straight to it. Grab a couple good holds and do a simple top out. As far as I know, this is the second hardest probl...[more]   Browse More Classics in Illinois

Photos of The Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: another nice block at The Beach
another nice block at The Beach
Rock Climbing Photo: walking down the beach
walking down the beach
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on River View
Me on River View
Rock Climbing Photo: Shelby climbing a fun shorty
Shelby climbing a fun shorty
Rock Climbing Photo: Don climbing a little crack problem
Don climbing a little crack problem
Rock Climbing Photo: walking down the beach looking for more boulders
walking down the beach looking for more boulders

Comments on The Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eero46
Nov 13, 2012
There is no "trail" down the hill after the atv trail. I would just recommend following the atv trail all the way until it butts up against the river. I ran into a hunter while walking down the atv trail and he doesn't care as long as you stay on the trail.
By Dave Hug
From: Carbondale, Illinois
Jul 20, 2014

Some fine beach bouldering
By Dave Hug
From: Carbondale, Illinois
Jul 20, 2014

More Beach bouldering
By Sarah1514
Nov 18, 2015
Can anyone give directions to get here? Or an address to somewhere nearby?
By Eero46
Feb 18, 2016
Good article for info on the Beach.

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