This crag has two 5.11's, a few 5.12's and a few 5.13's. It is located above and left of the main Sunnyside wall and is a steep little wall with some impressive overhangs on its left side. It catches lots of morning sun, and can be VERY hot in direct sun, so it's necessary to have a strategy to avoid the heat. You can: Go on a day when the temperature is below 60. Go on a cloudy day. Go later in the afternoon when the sun angle is more favorable. As the sun swings north in the spring, the crag gets good shade about mid-afternoon. So Feb, March and April are good months to make a mid-to-late afternoon visit. In April, most of the routes are in shade by 1 p.m.
The wall is shaped like a breaking wave. It starts at 20 deg. overhung on the right side, and breaks to about 60 deg. overhung on the left. The routes are steep and sustained.
Follow the map provided. Take the upper trail then cut right on the spur trail and follow it past the Cheese Block a ways then take the split left up to The Beach.
Climbing Season For the La Milagrosa Canyon area.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Beach
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Beach
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Beach:
Milanoma 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Eclipse 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
No War 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For The Beach
View of the beach from across the canyon
BETA PHOTO: Beach Part III
BETA PHOTO: Beach Part II
BETA PHOTO: Beach Part I: The Cheese Block
Feb 16, 2006
Don't bother with the far-left 11d. It is pretty lame.
Dec 31, 2007
Eclipse - 12d - the big roof
Pipeline - 13a - shoots out the right side of the curl.
No War - 13+ - the sharp arete
Blood Meridian - 12+ - up to the seam
Milanoma - 12 - up the blocks
Holeo - 13a - up past the small deep hueco
Solar Power - 12a - starts from the crappy ledge
Hang Eleven - 11c - furthest right on the crappy ledge
Good warmup is Tragically Hip (11a) down below The Beach.
By Joe Kreidel
From: San Antonio, TX
Jan 10, 2009
What is the route that traverses left from near the start of Eclipse? Looks like you have a pretty good chance of ground fall for much of the route. Is it safer than it looks? More fun than it looks?
Jan 20, 2009
Death of a Surfer. It blows.