REI Community
The Beach

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Meridian S 
Eclipse S 
For The Lova Mike S 
Hang Eleven S 
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 
Milanoma S 
No War S 
Pipeline S 
Solar Power S 

The Beach Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 7,809
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: WSnyder on Feb 16, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!


This crag has two 5.11's, a few 5.12's and a few 5.13's. It is located above and left of the main Sunnyside wall and is a steep little wall with some impressive overhangs on its left side. It catches lots of morning sun, and can be VERY hot in direct sun, so it's necessary to have a strategy to avoid the heat. You can: Go on a day when the temperature is below 60. Go on a cloudy day. Go later in the afternoon when the sun angle is more favorable. As the sun swings north in the spring, the crag gets good shade about mid-afternoon. So Feb, March and April are good months to make a mid-to-late afternoon visit. In April, most of the routes are in shade by 1 p.m.
The wall is shaped like a breaking wave. It starts at 20 deg. overhung on the right side, and breaks to about 60 deg. overhung on the left. The routes are steep and sustained.

Getting There 

Follow the map provided. Take the upper trail then cut right on the spur trail and follow it past the Cheese Block a ways then take the split left up to The Beach.

Climbing Season

For the La Milagrosa Canyon area.

Weather station 5.7 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Beach:
Solar Power   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   
Milanoma   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Blood Meridian   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 40'   
Eclipse   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Holeo An' Glassy Ass   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 40'   
No War   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Beach

Featured Route For The Beach
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the first crux of Blood.  If a climb tha...

Blood Meridian 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : The Beach
Very physical route that's burly from bottom to top and has lots of good footwork. Overhangs about 30 degrees. The moves at the bottom of the crack put the "P" in Power layback....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of The Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the beach from across the canyon
View of the beach from across the canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Beach Part III
Rock Climbing Photo: Beach Part II
Rock Climbing Photo: Beach Part I: The Cheese Block
BETA PHOTO: Beach Part I: The Cheese Block
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel Herk on Milanoma
Joel Herk on Milanoma

Comments on The Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By jbak
Feb 16, 2006
Don't bother with the far-left 11d. It is pretty lame.
By jbak
Dec 31, 2007

Eclipse - 12d - the big roof
Pipeline - 13a - shoots out the right side of the curl.
No War - 13+ - the sharp arete
Blood Meridian - 12+ - up to the seam
Milanoma - 12 - up the blocks
Holeo - 13a - up past the small deep hueco
Solar Power - 12a - starts from the crappy ledge
Hang Eleven - 11c - furthest right on the crappy ledge

Good warmup is Tragically Hip (11a) down below The Beach.
By Joe Kreidel
From: San Antonio, TX
Jan 10, 2009
What is the route that traverses left from near the start of Eclipse? Looks like you have a pretty good chance of ground fall for much of the route. Is it safer than it looks? More fun than it looks?
By jbak
Jan 20, 2009
Death of a Surfer. It blows.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About