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The Beach, Right Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Assume the Position S 
Crystal Voyage T 
Flotsam T 
Keelhauled T 
Lowest Common Denominator T 
Message In a Bottle T 
Riptide T 
Schrodinger's Cat T 
Shark Bait T 

The Beach, Right Side Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 1,677
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Mar 6, 2013
Forecast:
Overnight

39°
Wednesday

60° | 36°
Thursday

57° | 33°
Friday

53° | 31°
Saturday

54° | 32°
Sunday

57° | 33°
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Description 

The routes on the right side of the Beach could be grouped under the Beach, but the wall has a completely different feel than the standard Beach routes so seperating them out seems to make some sense.

Unlike the left side of the Beach these routes are longer, steeper, and more continuous. The climbing on whole is quite good, with a nice mix of small knobs, edges, and pimples.

The base of the right side is a stellar hang, flat, trees for shade, nice views, hard to beat.

A single 70m works for all routes.

In spite of the trend in recent years to call anything with bolts "sport" climbing the routes here are called "trad" since they were all done ground up. The routes are all reasonably protected, some even well protected, but for the most part the bolts aren't every body length.

(Take the star ratings with a grain of salt, as the area author may have a biased opinion - but some of them are pretty good.)

Getting There 

The standard Beach approach.

Climbing Season

For the Whitney Portal area.

Weather station 14.9 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Beach, Right Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Beach, Right Side:
Crystal Voyage   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Schrodinger's Cat   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Riptide   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Beach, Right Side

Featured Route For The Beach, Right Side

Message In a Bottle 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Beach, Right Side
A fun exercise in knobs, edging, and smearing. A little wandering on pitch two, but still quite good.Pitch 1: Do the obvious thin crack that slowly opens to hands. At the broken ledge step left and follow the flake to the bolt anchor at it's top. The crack on this pitch tends to occasionally require cleaning. 5.9.Pitch 2: Easy knob climbing thins down as the climbing moves a little right. From the last really good knobs curve back left on ever decreasing knobs. Thin moves then lead strai...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on The Beach, Right Side Add Comment
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By Josh Janes
General Admin
Jul 7, 2015
A couple questions:

What time does this wall go into the shade? Does "Tree Line" see shade as well?

Can Crystal Voyage be rappelled with a single 70m as indicated here (the book calls for two ropes)?

Cheers!
By Darrell Hensel
Jul 7, 2015
I was going up there during the summer and the routes would go into the shade at right around 4:00. Kind of late, but if it's staying light till 8 still enough time to get some things done.

I would assume Tree Line would also get some shade. I'm more familiar with the specifics of when shade starts on the right side so I can't say for sure when or how good.

For Crystal Voyage, I'm quite sure I remember being able to get off with a single rope by going to the Assume The Position anchor and then doing a second rapp. The guide reflects what we did on the FA, which was a single rapp. I did say a single 70m would work, and I think it was due to the two rapp option. It has been a while since I did it - so to be safe - eyeball the distances involved before starting. I do think it works with a single rope and two rapps though.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Jul 8, 2015
Thanks much Darrell - looking forward to a first visit to the beach!

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