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The Bazooka 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: T. Gordon and S. Olsen
Season: winter sun
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Dec 7, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: West Siberia. T.Gordon pic, my overlay.


After walking the plank a bit up and right you are able to stand under the bolt just above the roof. Here you can put in a real small cam in a slot just under the lip of the roof. This might save your life if you pop trying to get a real small wired in just above the roof. Now you need to do the move, or at least some of it, before clipping the bolt above the roof. Some sort of standup move will lead to easier climbing and additional protection hopefully as needed.


Start as for Old Hornington and move up and right along the ramp until you are under the lone bolt above the roof. Two bolt anchor with rap rings at the top.


Thin stuff to start, then a bolt, then according to the Vogel guide, pro to 2". Two bolt anchor at the top with rap rings.

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By Russ Walling
Dec 7, 2013

I tried to lead this thing as the morning warmup. That didn't go to well as I never got in any pro I thought would hold and the retreat/downclimb was sorta sketch.

So after doing another route to reach the anchors atop this thing, we dropped a TR down and got ready to slay the beast. Flat could not do it! Gave it a few tries with different methods and just could not make it happen. The pro to start looked real thin, and if you popped, you would be a mess as there is no landing. You could probably clip the bolt once you toss a foot up over the lip of the roof from a contorted scrunch. Don't kick your pro out! Not something I would go back out there to do.
By Obecian
Jan 26, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

one move wonder on scary pro but worth a top rope after Jake Off

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