The Battery Cliff Rock Climbing
A steep, south-facing wall situated directly below the south side of the ridge containing the Baftery and on the north side of the large, open gully that terminates Landing Craft Bay.
Apart from some crumbliness at the far right-hand end of the cliff, the climbing is on good clean rock, the majority of the routes following powerful crack and groove lines. Low-to-mid-tide access depending on the chosen route.
From the Baftery, descend in a south-westerly direction over broken ground to a point some 25 metres above the sea. A short abseil from good block belays leads to boulders at the base of the cliff. The right-hand side of the cliff is barely tidal, whilst the central area is accessible for two hours either side of low tide. The left-hand side requires an extremely low tide. An alternative but potentially more hazardous approach is to descend the large open gully to the south of the Baftery.
Climbing Season For the South West area.
Weather station 13.3 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Battery Cliff
Supercharged 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : The Battery Cliff
the long slender groove left of Alternator. The difficulties are continuous but infinitely protectable with plenty of small wires. Start as for Alternator. Climb the short wall to the ledge but swing up and left onto a shelf below the groove. Enter the groove (peg) and fallow it by a series of fingery pulls and contorted bridging manoeuvres to its conclusion....[more] Browse More Classics in International
By Nick Russell
From: Bristol, UK
Sep 25, 2013
The scramble down the South side (referred to in the 2008 guide as the "easy way down") is not all that bad. It doesn't descend the gully, rather staying on the northerly spur, just skirting the top of the cliff. Downclimbing and traversing of about 5.4 standard is necessary but only in short steps. This approach allows access to all climbs on the South side of the Battery Cliff at most states of the tide (depending on the swell).