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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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The Barbie Doll Arete 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Brad Durbin, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,244
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Mar 9, 2009

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In the crux on the FA. Photo: Cory Fleagle.

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This is a fun, high quality 100’ route climbing the thin off-set seam to the right of Crazy Fingers in the Cirque of the Cracks area. Climb 15’ up to the far R side of the ledge system that marks the start of Foxtrot and Crazy Fingers. Climb up the face with little protection (a large horn in the broken band at the start of Pins and Needles can be slung, awkwardly, for protection here) till your feet are on the break marked by a small fir sapling, the beginning of the crux. From here a shallow micronut can be placed above in the seam. Climb up and over the bulge with wide pinches and corner-arête-slapping side-pulls to a finger slot, good gear, and easier climbing. Follow the seam straight up the shallow, right-facing corner then up through an aesthetic overhanging finger crack in the right side of a slot. Continue straight up the arête-corner through two more steep bulges to the top.

Unfortunately, the route shares a hold with Pins and Needles, even though you climb directly up the offset seam 4-6’ left of Pins and Needles. This route fits well with others on this wall, similar in difficulty, severity, and quality to Crazy Fingers, habanero level spicy. Originally TR'd by Kevin Gallagher, this line was established head-point style and on the FA both climbers led the pitch placing all gear on lead with the exception of the slung horn at the start.


The route climbs the next crack to the right of Crazy Fingers in the Cirque of the Cracks area. 100' to an alcove shared by Tango with a tree and slings. Descend via a left angling rappel to the anchors atop parallels with a 60m rope, or a 70 m rope will just reach the ledge 15’ off the ground.


SR including micronuts, and extra finger-sized cams.

Photos of The Barbie Doll Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Done with the crux, with ~60' of fun 10 and 11 cli...
Done with the crux, with ~60' of fun 10 and 11 cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the crux sequence on the FA.  Photo: C...
Approaching the crux sequence on the FA. Photo: C...

Comments on The Barbie Doll Arete Add Comment
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By Brad Durbin
Mar 9, 2009

Fantastic route and rock quality. Fine addition to the Cirque of the Cracks. Hope it sees some traffic as it is a very worthy long line.
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Mar 9, 2009

Nice one Wayne and Brad! I remember seeing something out right with chalk on it when I was working Crazy Fingers. I'll have to go up and check it out.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Mar 9, 2009

This route looks awesome! One day.... It was a pleasure to meet you.
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Mar 9, 2009

Nice job guys. Way to stay focused. Especially after party Sat. night. A few of us managed to boulder for a couple hours. Weak compared to your feat. What's next????

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