REI Community
search
West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail T 
Backslash T 
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 
Bit by Bit T,S 
Bottlenecks T 
Clean Dan T 
Coffee Break with Joe T 
Cold Turkey T 
Coniferous Types T 
Crazy Fingers T 
Cruising Lane T 
Detour, The T 
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 
Duh Dihedral T 
Early Bird Special T 
Fine Line T,TR 
Five Fang Overhang T 
Fork in the Road T 
Formula, The T 
Foxtrot T 
Funeral March T 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 
Hang Ten T,TR 
Highway 61 T 
Inverted Vee T 
Iron Pony T 
Kashmir T,TR 
Kubla Khan T 
Lady Fingers T 
Lunar Avenue T 
Lunar Lander T 
Masterbator's Edge, The T 
Milk and Honey T 
Milk Dreams T 
Mirage T 
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 
Parallels T 
Pool of Blood T 
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 
Rhadamanthus T 
River Of Darkness T 
Road Narrows T 
Sign of the Cross T 
Snail Mail T 
Srinagar T 
Tampon T,TR 
Tango T 
Tanqueray T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Texas Two-Step T 
Three Lane Highway T 
Toprope Right of Formula TR 
Trip Itch T 
Tryptich T 
Whatever T 
Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 

The Barbie Doll Arete 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Brad Durbin, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,246
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Mar 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
In the crux on the FA. Photo: Cory Fleagle.

  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a fun, high quality 100’ route climbing the thin off-set seam to the right of Crazy Fingers in the Cirque of the Cracks area. Climb 15’ up to the far R side of the ledge system that marks the start of Foxtrot and Crazy Fingers. Climb up the face with little protection (a large horn in the broken band at the start of Pins and Needles can be slung, awkwardly, for protection here) till your feet are on the break marked by a small fir sapling, the beginning of the crux. From here a shallow micronut can be placed above in the seam. Climb up and over the bulge with wide pinches and corner-arête-slapping side-pulls to a finger slot, good gear, and easier climbing. Follow the seam straight up the shallow, right-facing corner then up through an aesthetic overhanging finger crack in the right side of a slot. Continue straight up the arête-corner through two more steep bulges to the top.

    Unfortunately, the route shares a hold with Pins and Needles, even though you climb directly up the offset seam 4-6’ left of Pins and Needles. This route fits well with others on this wall, similar in difficulty, severity, and quality to Crazy Fingers, habanero level spicy. Originally TR'd by Kevin Gallagher, this line was established head-point style and on the FA both climbers led the pitch placing all gear on lead with the exception of the slung horn at the start.

    Location 

    The route climbs the next crack to the right of Crazy Fingers in the Cirque of the Cracks area. 100' to an alcove shared by Tango with a tree and slings. Descend via a left angling rappel to the anchors atop parallels with a 60m rope, or a 70 m rope will just reach the ledge 15’ off the ground.

    Protection 

    SR including micronuts, and extra finger-sized cams.


    Photos of The Barbie Doll Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Done with the crux, with ~60' of fun 10 and 11 cli...
    Done with the crux, with ~60' of fun 10 and 11 cli...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the crux sequence on the FA.  Photo: C...
    Approaching the crux sequence on the FA. Photo: C...

    Comments on The Barbie Doll Arete Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Brad Durbin
    Mar 9, 2009

    Fantastic route and rock quality. Fine addition to the Cirque of the Cracks. Hope it sees some traffic as it is a very worthy long line.
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Mar 9, 2009

    Nice one Wayne and Brad! I remember seeing something out right with chalk on it when I was working Crazy Fingers. I'll have to go up and check it out.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Mar 9, 2009

    This route looks awesome! One day.... It was a pleasure to meet you.
    By kevin murphy
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    Mar 9, 2009

    Nice job guys. Way to stay focused. Especially after party Sat. night. A few of us managed to boulder for a couple hours. Weak compared to your feat. What's next????

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About