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The Balcony

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After All This Time S 
Always S 
Sight Unseen S 

The Balcony Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.80293, -71.83505 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,868
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2015
Forecast:
Today

71° | 59°
Wednesday

75° | 58°
Thursday

76° | 53°
Friday

75° | 53°
Saturday

79° | 57°
Sunday

80° | 58°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Basic location of the cliff and how to approach. N...

Description 

Second pitch terrain of Orange Crush, specifically above the upper anchor ledge of Black Mamba. It is easy to approach independently from the rest of Orange Crush so I figured it should get a separate area. You could do these routes as second pitches after doing Black Mamba but I don't think many will do it that way.

Climbs from 50-80ft in length on interesting rock with some of the best views and exposure you can get at Rumney for the moderate grades.

Important logistics!
-The Climbs start a few steps away from about a 100ft drop. Take care and use anchors where prudent.
-This is not a crag for dogs or kids, a bad step could be their last.
-The area directly below this is very popular. Take great care to avoid dropping anything on climbers and/or by standers below.
-Tread as lightly as possible at the base of these climbs. Erosion will rain debris down on people below.

Getting There 

Hike up the trail as if you are going to Pulse wall and just as you get to pulse there is a path leading to the left and out to the edge of Orange Crush. You will know you have arrived when you see the rope I have run between some trees to help people stay in the safe zone. There is a loop close to the edge of the cliff for anchoring.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.9 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Balcony

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Balcony:
After All This Time   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 50'   
Sight Unseen   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport   
Always   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Balcony

Featured Route For The Balcony
Rock Climbing Photo: AJ on After All This Time 5.7

After All This Time 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Balcony
This amazingly exposed route has been on my mind for years. I could see through the thick blanket of lichen and knew there was something special to be climbed. I would look at it after topping out Black Mamba, or walk over from Pulse to gaze at it. One day I suggested to My friend that we get adventurous and we went after it in ground up trad style. I love wading through filth wondering what is around the next corner and where I might get my next piece of pro... I also know that most people don'...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of The Balcony Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: left to right: After All This Time 5.7 Always     ...
BETA PHOTO: left to right: After All This Time 5.7 Always ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty spectacular position up there... Tyler trav...
Pretty spectacular position up there... Tyler trav...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning from just above upper crush
Early morning from just above upper crush

Comments on The Balcony Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 9, 2015
By ward smith
Sep 2, 2015
Looks great Lee, will check these routes out this weekend!

Just a suggestion on the name, many refer to the area around Orangahang as "Upper Orange Crush," so maybe "Above Orange Crush" or "Orange Crush Balcony.."

Just my two zinc pennies....
By S. Neoh
Sep 2, 2015
Incidentally I also heard someone refer to the OrangaHang area as "Upper Orange Crush" last night which led to some confusion in my mind for a few minutes.
I like "Orange Crush Balcony"; it imparts the imagery of an "airy" place.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 2, 2015
"Orange Crush Balcony" sounds good and gets the point across.
tell me how it goes out there... I really like it :)
By jay davis
From: New Hampshire
Sep 5, 2015
It was mentioned it the description, but I'd like to reiterate how important it is to be extremely careful while hanging out in this area, especially on a busy day. In addition to lots of little stuff, there was at least one very serious block dislodged today that landed in the vicinity of the Black Mamba belay area. I'd strongly recommend climbing elsewhere if there's any sort of crowd near the lower routes of Orange Crush.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 6, 2015
Scary... Where did the block come off of... I took a pry bar to everything i could last time I was up there...
we have been running laps on the routes specifically looking for loose stuff with nothing but tiny chips breaking loose, even before i brought the crowbar up...
Anyway, Of course safety is my first concern so thanks for the heads up...
By jay davis
From: New Hampshire
Sep 6, 2015
I was on the ledge near Orange Crush (the climb) when it happened, so I'm not entirely sure where the rock came from or how it got loose - it may have been something that was kicked over the edge or sent flying by a pulled rope.

It looks like a lot of work was put into cleaning these routes, and I really look forward to giving them a try soon. I just wanted to make it clear that you can't let your guard down if you choose to climb there - you have to be very aware of the situation below you at all times.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 7, 2015
Ah, gotcha. Makes more sense. If you are not being cautious you could cause a lot of trouble up
There for sure. Thank you for letting us all know.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Sep 12, 2015
I got on Sight Unseen today. Fun climb, should clean up better as more people head up there. I would have got on the other two climbs but I really didn't feel comfortable as there was a large party on Black Mamba.

It's definitely a cool spot. Also, thanks for putting up that rope Lee as it really helped ease my partner's fall to your doom anxiety ;)
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 13, 2015
Calling this Pulse Wall is definitely super confusing, but awesome that you found it! The Balcony is definitely a good name if that is what it feels like up there, I'll have to check it out soon! Thanks Lee!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 13, 2015
Only called the pulse wall so that the organization will make sense in the next edition of the guide book... It is attached to orange crush but approached via Pulse wall but doesn't have enough routes to be called it's own crag. I think "The Balcony" will be the way it is spoken of.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 14, 2015
Is the approach treacherous at all? Any death potential? Have you marked the trail or is it easy to find?
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Sep 14, 2015
It's super easy, Eli. No danger until you actually get to the cliff. Head up to Pulse and then right around "Tool Time" look to your left for an obvious clearing in the trees and walk down the path.
By jimmybob
Nov 9, 2015
went up today and there's a nice rope to help avoid that 100 foot fall to the ground near the belays...also brushed away the extremelyyy slippery leaves that were on the trail...much better now. definitely dont want to slip on leaves up there

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