REI Community
Middle Finger Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Pocket of Like'N T 
Balcony, The T,TR 
Connect The Cracks T 
Flexible Flyer TR 
High Five  T 
Iron Curtain TR 
Middle Finger T 
Pillar Passage T 
Rerouted T 

The Balcony 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,941
Submitted By: chopperjohn on Sep 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Leading pitch 2

Description 

Near and above the big ledge aka " The Balcony"

Location 

middle finger proper.

Protection 

sling some trees, cam a pocket and a couple horizontal tricam spots leads to nice bolt anchor. Top belay is an option also can be done in 2 pitches to avoid huge rope drag.


Photos of The Balcony Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Note the loose block outlined in red. Climb face l...
BETA PHOTO: Note the loose block outlined in red. Climb face l...
Rock Climbing Photo: The "balcony"
The "balcony"
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading pitch 2
Leading pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Bro and cousin racing up the wall on top belay.
Bro and cousin racing up the wall on top belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Large ledge at top of route with great views. Bolt...
Large ledge at top of route with great views. Bolt...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty sure this is the first picture of a Hammock...
Pretty sure this is the first picture of a Hammock...
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Finger Wall  The Balcony (5.5) trad  Crowde...
Middle Finger Wall The Balcony (5.5) trad Crowde...
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Finger Wall  The Balcony (5.5) trad  Crowde...
Middle Finger Wall The Balcony (5.5) trad Crowde...

Comments on The Balcony Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 22, 2012

Locate the cave/hole/balcony in the center and halfway up Middle Finger Wall.

Start under this feature on a small slab pillar that leads to the balcony. Climb cliff left out of the balcony and continue climbing up just left of the balcony to arrive on an obivious ledge with a bolted anchor.

One long pitch makes for some fun climbing but make sure to use extended runners. The rock quality is not inspiring but the climbing is physically easy.
By Russ Keane
Dec 9, 2013

LOVED THIS CLIMB!

Such an unexpected treat. If you are looking for some low-level trad, this is a pleasant but challenging two-pitch adventure that has some of the most unique architectural features I've ever seen, on pitch one. Simply gorgeous visually, getting up to and chilling in "the cave".

Then for pitch two, you have to swing around left out of the cave, which is pretty airy and exposed. The whole pitch is steep and very heady, albeit easy climbing with a million holds and feet. SOOO much fun for trad leading. I've climbed some exposed routes before (Gunks for sure), and this one ranks up there. It's intense! But not scary.
By Russ Keane
Jan 16, 2017

  • ** LOOSE BLOCK WARNING ****

Right below the Balcony (1st pitch belay). GIANT BLOCK about the size of a refrigerator.... the whole thing wiggles a lot, it could fall off pretty soon. It would fall right on everyone, maybe even tumble down to the tourist trail. This thing is extremely dangerous. Who should lead the effort to deal with this? Not sure the protocol.
By Will Houghton
Apr 6, 2017

Question: Coming south to take younger nephews climbing. Is there a walkoff, ie method to set toprope without leading this?
By Dave K
May 7, 2017
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Will, you can walk up the gullies to behind the wall in order to set up a top
anchor. You will see a little alcove at the top with a ledge and two big bolts. Not sure of the rope length needed, I think a 70m might be alright, but a top belay might be the safer method of top-roping.

Beware of the loose "fridge-sized" block that is right below the balcony midpoint. This could kill someone. Russ, you are correct that this needs to be trundled safely. Route does not get much traffic, and someone that is unaware of this might be in danger.

To avoid the choss, climb the exposed face below and left of the balcony and traverse right back into it to set up the belay.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About