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Animal World
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aardvark T,TR 
Animal Instinct S 
Animal Magnetism S 
Animal Riots Activist S 
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance S 
Automatic Choke T,TR 
Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer S 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Evolution Revolution S 
Familiar Strangers T 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
Fifth Destiny, The S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Geritol Generation T,TR 
Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
Hands of Destiny S 
Hope and Pray T,S 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
Krakatoa T 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 
Lazy Day S 
Lovely to See You T,S 
Melancholy Man S 
New Beginnings S 
Nice To Be Here S 
Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
Sundog S 
Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

The Balance 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D & Dan Brockway
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,452
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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The crux looks easy in this photo and from the gro...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux is getting past the second bolt. Nice face climbing leads to a crack (medium gear) and to the last bolt and the anchors.

Location 

On a pillar of rock 40 feet right of Isn't Life Strange

Protection 

Six clips, green, red and yellow camalots and quickdraws for the ring anchors.


Photos of The Balance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux.
Above the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Laying off the corner at the crux.
Laying off the corner at the crux.

Comments on The Balance Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
May 15, 2008

Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean.
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move.
Definitely not a bomb.
By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2009

You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route.
By Greg D
From: Here
Apr 4, 2011

There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???).

Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it.
By ANGUS WIESSNER
From: Denver Colorad
Nov 16, 2016

I found just having the draw hung was enough to make the clip reasonable. I also assume that the route setter was stick clipping the first bolt or putting in pro before attempting to hang the draw. I felt on the start if you stayed just right of the first two bolts it felt safe and pretty cool. My partner went left at second bolt, and it looked really unpleasant and not as safe. We didn't know it was a mixed climb and did the crack section to the last bolt with no pro, which is dead easy, but a fall would be brutal. As I was attempting to clip the last draw before the anchor, I stood up and hit my head on the roof almost blowing my feet and taking the fall. Thank God I didn't!!!! Bring The GEAR or be prepared to climb 5.6R crack, and watch your head before the clip. Yikes!!!

I'd give it THREE STARS for an adventure route. It gets sun late.