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Section 3 (edit later)
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Bad, The T 

The Bad 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: jcs 6-21-2017
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: Jonathan Steitzer on Jun 22, 2017

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Rapping to clean p2 after the rope solo lead.

  • ACCESS IS NOT OK YET MORE INFO >>>
  • This area is now closed by the land owner MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the route I took to climb this thing after finding this place. I was just trying to get to the top in one piece while climbing alone. There is potential for better routes, but the rock quality is bad.

    Bad



    Bushwhack 1.5 hours to base.

    3 pitches.

    1 - 5.3 slab. Trend up and right till slab ends, step left across gully do a few moves and gainy sandy buttress with a tree on the right.

    2 - 5.6 slab to roof. From the top of the buttress Follow slab up to roof. Pro is sparse and rock is friable. Pull roof with thoughtful feet then swim up muddy grass to a sturdy tree.

    3 - 5.5 easy roof. Directly above tree study the roof system, walk up grass slope to roof, protect, pull. Stay left, roof to right has tons of loose blocks ready to fall down like a game of jenga.

    A crack splits the roof that you can protect easily and 2 moves and you're over. Follow slabs to tree line.

    Bushwhack out.

    Wall and face have no access from roads or anything else at this time. There are no trails except faint game trails. This is a brutal bush whack.

    Just adding this for my milleage records. This climb is crap, but there's potential for actual aesthetic lines here.

    note to self - secure access and return.

    Location 

    bushwhack for 1.5 hours in. Bushwhack to easy trail out from summit. 1 hour.

    email me for more details if you're interested.

    Protection 

    Trad


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