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The Bad Apple 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 13'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Aug 9, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the starting holds (blue) and gen...

Description 

Start standing with high crimps (see photo) and climb the seam via some technical footwork and core tension. Figuring out the beta is probably the crux on this one.

This is a unique climb on good quality rock, though somewhat awkward from a movement perspective. Definitely worth trying if you're in the area.

Technique will take you further than tugging will.

Location 

This problem is located on The Walrus, between 'Individual Medley' and 'Tisk, Tisk'.

Protection 

Two or three pads are ideal, but it can be done fairly safely with one.


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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 9, 2014

I had heard that a key foothold had broken on this sometime over the last 5 years or so. I never tried the climb prior to today so I can't say what it used to climb like, but it felt closer to v5 to me. (It was given v4/5 in the Kemple guide.) It is somewhat difficult to grade because it's a very unique climb, relying more on good beta and technique than pulling power. Give it a go and see what you think!
By zach wambsganss
From: hudson nh
May 17, 2016

So I ended up hoping on this sweet climb the other day, went pretty smooth with a lot of technique and a little power. Was a little surprised with the down climb, I didn't realize it was the same way that I got up. struggled a little bit trying to figure out how to get down. Eventually after a 5 minute struggle I ended up leaping off the boulder to the tree just to the right of the start holds and sliding down like I was a firefighter sliding down the Emergency pole:)
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
May 17, 2016

Yeah the top of this boulder is not casual, you can downclimb near this climb enough to use the tree to get down, but it's not pretty. Not what you want after the mentally-taxing highballs on all sides of it but it works...
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
May 20, 2017
rating: V5+ 6C+

This was the last climb I did on the boulder. Mainly because I was a little intimidated by the two trees behind me but it also happened to be pretty tricky to figure out. Great rock quality but it doesn't climb quite as good as it looks and it just didn't flow as well as other problems on this boulder. Still a pretty unique line worth checking out.

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