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The Baby's Cry 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 669
Submitted By: BDalhaus on May 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

A beautiful, striking arete that is both deceptive and frustrating. It's about as much of a V3 as the dyno method on it's neighbor, the Crimp Problem, which is to say they're both probably sandbagged or skewed in favor of the taller climber. If you're up to it, have a seat at the base of the arete with a right hand crimp and your left hand pulling on the arete. Bump up the arete a few times, grab a terrible crimp with your right hand and decide if you want to keep bumping up the arete or dyno to the juggy lip. I'll leave it to you to figure out the footwork.

Location 

Atop the hill and between Jelly Rock/Try Again and the Hemlock Boulder/Big & Tall, this boulder forms the narrow corridor with Gadgetry, Maxim, etc. This climbs the sharp arete left of the Crimp Problem.

Protection 

Pad


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By Lanky
From: Tired
May 4, 2011
rating: V4 6B

Feels solid V4 to me. Similar difficulty to Hobbit Direct, though completely different in style.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Aug 11, 2016

I had never tried or even heard of this climb before, so we weren't sure quite how to do it, but this is what we came up with. Pretty cool this way!
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Aug 11, 2016

Looks like a fun variation! Probably more fun than the original, which stays on the right side of the arete, next to the crimp problem.
By Graham O.
Nov 13, 2016

Very dynamic and actually quite fun, despite how sharp and height-dependent it is. Reminded me of Poseidon at the Swamp Boulders.