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The Garden
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B Boys, The T,S 
Before The Deluge S 
Border Crossing T,S 
Crackdown T,S 
Dutch Treat T 
Fine Fir T,S 
Just Do It T,S 
Showtime T 
Smooth Operator T,S 
Storm Warning TR 

The B Boys 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob D & Bruno Haché, 8/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,048
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Stemmed on the second pitch.

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  • Description 

    Short crux sections on both pitches two and three. The technical stemming on the last pitch is really fun!

    P1: Start by climbing Crackdown, Before The Deluge, or Fine Fir to their common anchor on a pedestal about 65' up. Crackdown is the suggested start.

    P2: Traverse right from the belay to a thin seam/ thin gear and then clip a bolt. Make a hard move to a good edge/flake, then climb up and right to a two-bolt belay. 5.10+, 50'.

    P3: Climb up the shallow corner above the belay to a steep corner with three overhangs. Stem past three bolts, turn the final overhang, and reach the upper wall. Angle right and climb a moderate left-facing corner and cracks to a two-bolt anchor. 5.10+, 95'.

    Descent: Rap 95' back to the anchor below the roof, then 110' down a gully to the start of Local Hero. A 60m rope works with a bit of easy downclimbing. Go up a steep path to the left to get back to The Garden.

    Alternate descent: You can angle the second rappel sharply to the left to reach The Garden after 95'.


    The Garden area. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.


    P2: 1 bolt and thin gear (small cams). 2-bolt anchor.
    P3: 3 bolts and gear up to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of The B Boys Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Low on the second pitch.
    Low on the second pitch.

    Comments on The B Boys Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    Oct 18, 2007
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Interesting 2nd pitch! The bolts are well placed. It looks like a key hold might come out. (There is a loose, triangular block above the roof that creates a good hand-hold.) I wonder if this would go at a lesser grade if someone cleaned the crack above the roof?

    I think this one could go trad if you were ambitious. Maybe some day.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Aug 4, 2013
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    You certainly need to know how to stem to be successful on the 2nd pitch. The 1st pitch looks difficult, but good holds appear when you need them.
    By Alex Vidal
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 15, 2016
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Pretty fun stem problem and a little more sustained than I was expecting (though there is only one distinct crux). I think it would go on gear pretty easily. There is gear by all three of the bolts (in order - yellow Alien, RP, yellow/orange Alien, yellow Alien, hand-sized cam)... that said, I'm not complaining about having them there.
    By Ed Krejcik
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Aug 13, 2016

    Does anybody do the 1st pitch? It was licheny AF, desperate, and slippery. Even after getting the flake over the lip, it's lichen everywhere. Sketchy!

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