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Cap Rock - North Face
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Anniversary Special T 
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Bush Eviction T 
Circus T 
Circus, Circus T 
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False Prophet T 
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 
Lil Squirt S 
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Thin Ice TR 

The Ayatollah 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: (TR) Mike Waugh 1979, FL: Bob Gaines & Tommy Romero 4/97
Page Views: 1,017
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 1, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: "The Ayatollah". Photo by Blitzo.


Originally rated 11a on TR, this fine route is in the middle of the "amphitheater" on the upper north face. The climb begins as a thin crack that tapers to a seam where the first of three closely spaced bolts occurs. Powerful tips liebacking and high steps lead to the top. Clipping the bolts is tenuous / strenuous! Great rock - three out of five stars.


Two or three small cams or TCU's plus quick draws for three bolts. A two bolt anchor with webbing is at the top.

Photos of The Ayatollah Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ayatollah
Rock Climbing Photo: The north face of Cap Rock - Horror-zontal Terror-...
BETA PHOTO: The north face of Cap Rock - Horror-zontal Terror-...

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By Adam Stackhouse
Mar 20, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Interesting climb going from a shallow crack to hard face. Lieback city. On TR this felt at least 5.11b.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Apr 19, 2010

I really like this route. Well protected and fun moves, plus it's right next to the road. I'm surprised to never see anyone on it whenever I drive by. It reminds me of the crux of Huevos on Intersection Rock which is another good fingertip lieback to try.

There is a bolted rap station w/chains about 30 feet to the left of the Ayatollah anchors.
By Taylor Sather
Nov 17, 2010

I just did this route on monday 11/15/2010. I took a fall from just past the second bolt, and then got through it on my second go. Definitely make good use of the rest on the horizontal, because the lieback is very sustained. I think the route deserves at least three or four stars. I know it's short, but it's a beautiful line, in a beautiful setting on awesome rock! Also, it's very well protected. Definitely something you can push your limits on.

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