The Atlas, south face.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is the enormous rib that defines the right (east) side of the Mystery Towers. It's huge, with a bulging, beautiful, nearly blank 700-foot south face and shorter north face. There are at least three separate summits. First, a main, bigger one, then a funny hat-like summit further along the ridge and a third, shorter but more spindly pinnacle at the sharp final arete. There's two routes on the whole massive formation, likely both unrepeated. One, Wait of the World, takes the sunny south face to the main summit. The second route, Wondermonger, by Tpny Wilson and Russell Hooper is a bit harder and a bit shorter. It's not clear if both routes goes to the same summit.
1. The usual approach for the Mystery Towers works. It's possible to scramble directly up the steep gully right to the base of the south face. Or, from the Gothic Nightmare, contour across higher. A more scenic approach is to slog up the steep ridge that towers over the east side of the normal approach gully and keep wandering along the ridge-top to the same spot. Nice views this way.
Climbing Season For the Moab Area area.
Weather station 5.8 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Atlas
The Wait of the World 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: Moab Area
: ... : The Atlas
Start near the right (east) end of the expansive south face, on a rib just left of a large, deep hollow. Look for two bolts to start.1. From the bolts head up and left to a nice crack on the arete. Work up this. Ease past a closet-size, barely-attached block with care. Thinner nailing ends at a 3-bolt belay (A3, 80').2. Thin seams lead up and right to a bold ladder with occasional hooking. End at a nice ledge (A3, 80').3. Climb a flake system at the left end of the ledge, past one bolt, to a sha...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah