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Artful Dodger, The T 
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The Artful Dodger 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Grant Simmons, April 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 306
Submitted By: Grant Simmons on Apr 26, 2016

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Pitch 2. Great position. Great rock.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: Devious climbing up the bolted corner. The first few bolts suffer from unfortunate rock quality, but the rock significantly improves in the second half where sneaky holds and thought-provoking moves make for fine climbing. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.11b.

Pitch 2: A pitch that would feel at home on the South Buttress of Whitehorse: fine rock and ticky-tacky face climbing. Move right across the ledge to gain the pocketed headwall and a thin, bolted traverse. Finish up the orange slab. 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.10d.

Single rope rappel to the ground (use caution with a 60m; it'll be close...).

Location 

Locate the route at the toe of the central buttress. Begin immediately right of "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" at a bolted, right-facing corner.

Protection 

A .5 camalot protects the exit of Pitch 1 and the entrance to Pitch 2.


Photos of The Artful Dodger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1's engaging corner climbing.
Pitch 1's engaging corner climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: The end of Pitch 2's difficulties.
The end of Pitch 2's difficulties.

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