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Climb to the top of the arrowhead-shaped flake, then up a small hands crack that gets smaller to fingers near 2/3 way up.
In the dihedral just left of a small overhang.
Hands sized cams with doubles in small cams.
Lack of anchor is overcome by an odd set up of large cams over the lip.
By J. Pitts
From: the abyss (kansas)
Nov 20, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Real easy lead, check out the bolted route that got chopped next door to the right. The one with a football shaped loose block and the overhanging arete. These routes stay dry if rain is moving north south and not too hard.