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The Agronaut 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Steve Damboise, Charley Bentley 1991
Page Views: 1,427
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jun 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The Left Roof. The Argonaut (13a) climbs the blue ...

Description 

The Agronaut offers some old-school 80's sport climbing: crimpy and technical moves on a slightly overhanging wall. Locate the Left Roof, which is just right of Vultures. The Argonaut follows three bolts up the right side on the wall. Expect tweaky climbing on pretty good crimps, and the use of the dreaded outside edge of your boots (er, sorry, I meant shoes).

This route is one of the most consistently dry routes in New Hampshire, if not in all the country, as it ends at anchors at the base of the huge horizontal roof.


Protection 

Three bolts


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By Jerry Handren
Dec 25, 2013

Stevie wasn't exactly an English professor, but calling this route AGRONAUT wasn't a mistake.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 26, 2013

just to be clear... i should switch the spelling then?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 29, 2013

Get agro on it Lee.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 29, 2013

people don't use that word enough these days... its a waste really...
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 30, 2013

Aggro, not agro, coming from the word aggravation :)
By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 30, 2013

How about AverageNaught
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 6, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Jay- I know it's been a while for you, but where's the crux on this route? The first 2/3's seems like straight forward crimping, the top looks like it might be sequencey. This line intrigues me as it seems well suited to my strengths (and preference for shorter routes).
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 6, 2015

Hi Christian, I thought the hardest move was about midway on the route. I think where the line veers left (check out the photo), you grab a hold out left and make a hard move to a flat crimp. Clipping the anchors was hard as well, but not as hard as that midway move. Now that I think about it, that crux move was really cool, and kinda made the route doing, despite it being so short. Hope this helps!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 7, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Thanks for the reply, Jay. I'm a big fan of techy crimping, so this route caught my eye. Hopefully I'll get on it while I'm back.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 17, 2016
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

After sending this route, I have to say that I quite enjoyed it. Yes, it's short, but all of the moves are pretty interesting. It's powerful and technical and fairly sustained for it's length (at least for someone who is primarily a boulderer like me). While the crimp sequence is probably the hardest single move, the redpoint crux for me was the weird stand up move into the undercling just below the anchor. That's where I fell every time until I sent.

Kind of like the Bottom Feeder of Rumney, but perhaps a little harder?