This is a fantastic climb in a beautiful setting. Especially if you are doing the direct variation, which has lots of delicate fun moves with good gear. The exposed arete higher up leads to a nice ledge and double bolt anchor.
P1. Start on the very left end of the cliff. Tricky first move leads to bolt and easier terrain. Gain the steeper arete with good gear and climb to the top and 2 bolt anchor. 5.7 120'
The Arete Direct
Don't know if anyone climbed this variation before, either way it's highly recommended.
P1. Start more directly (and slightly right) below the obvious high arete, where it’s a little steeper. Climb though flakes and underclings with delicate moves and decent gear. Veer slightly left and join the standard route just before the arete proper. 5.7+ 120’
Descent: Rappel from anchor. Bushwack back down to the top of the Apron and continue rappelling to the ground.
GPS: N44.468211 W71.070190
The easiest way to get to the Arete is to climb the Apron and from there bushwack up and slightly right to the base of the climb. It’s a decent enough length so if you happen to bring your regular shoes with you, use them. Allegedly one can also scramble up the trees directly to here.