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Barber Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete., The T 
Big Deal Rock Climb T 
Black Crack T 
Black Lung T 
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 
Book of Solemnity, The T 
Chicken Delight T 
Double Vee T 
Dresden T 
Final Gesture T 
Graverobber T,TR 
Hatful of Hollow T 
Jolt T,S 
Kim Jung Il T 
Layton's Ascent T 
Lichen Delight T 
Lichen It a Lot T 
Medusa T 
Nomad Crack T 
Nutcracker T 
Off the Hook T,S 
Perseus  T,S 
Reconciliation T 
Retaliation T 
Upper Refuse T 
Webster's Unabridged T 
Youth Challenge T 

The Arete. 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ed Webster, Paul Ross Sept 3, 1978
Page Views: 1,915
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on Jan 6, 2010

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Historic Photo . Andy Tuthill on the crux section ...


A very committing lead up the spectacular knife edge just to the left of Black Crack and Upper Refuse. Due to the run outs on this climb it is not popular with modern climbers and is rarely led.It was the hardest lead on the Barber wall in the 1970's however it was by Ed Webster.

P1)Stay on the edge of the arete, laybacking some flakes, then a hard move to a small overhang. Follow thin cracks to a bolt and stance. Face climb straight up (5.11b R) to a ledge. Then follow incipient cracks (5.9R) to the top. 165' 5.11b R.


Cathedral Ledge.


Normal Rack.

Photos of The Arete. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Ross on the first ascent.1978
Paul Ross on the first ascent.1978
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Ellms leading the second ascent.
Chris Ellms leading the second ascent.

Comments on The Arete. Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 9, 2013
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 7, 2010

Well paul you sure sidestepped the ethics tightrope with this one ! Anyway a really good route that is maybe lead every few years.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jan 8, 2010

Did Rick Fleming get the ascent of the "chopped" version? I thought this was an excellent route although an encounter with a wasp's nest up high, a wee bit above an RP#3, was alarming.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 8, 2010

Ya i think it was Rick. I remember it being a pretty big deal too. I know when I led it, it seemed kindaspooky but really good. How about staying on the true arete ?
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jan 8, 2010

To the best of my memory this was the first and only FA that I did on both Cathedral and Whitehorse that I came in from the top (now normal procedure)all other FA's where done ground up on sight.The reason for coming in from the top was not to bolt it but to clean off the very thick lichen and to see if there was holds under it.As I had already used what I considered at that time a cheating method to clean and inspect the climb I thought as it appeared that protecting the crux by hand drilling free on the lead looked out of the question for us.So as sins had already been committed by the inspection from above etc I placed one bolt at the crux and another on the top 5.9 section.Some time later screaming started about rap bolting in general (not just over this climb) ..which I agreed with I chopped the two bolts, hoping that a better climber would in my opinion would do it the right way.. free on sight while placing the pro bolts on lead . This did not happen in 1980 Rick Fleming and Joe Lentini replaced the crux bolt by AID climbing the route ,pulled their ropes and then completed a ground up ascent... perhaps splittings hairs on ethics?
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jan 9, 2010

New Hampshire was always a bit dodgy on the consistency aspect of ethics. A little TR cleaning here, a rap bolt there, stray aid pieces left fixed, maybe some creative pin scarring, it all adds up to good stories in retrospect.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 19, 2010

GEE Peter, not talking about anything in particular ???? HA HA
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jan 19, 2010

No, no, no! Nothing at all in particular. Have you heard anything?
By apross
May 5, 2010

I replaced the original crux bolt around 1988, then preceded to brake a hold and take a 30 footer on it.
The peg that protected the moves to the arete came out with one tap. I did put it back in but not too hard as I did not want to knock the flake off!
Who knows how it is, if its still there?

Some great climbing, give it a scrub first.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This is the arete to the left of Black Crack and the Upper Refuse ramp.
By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
Jul 5, 2011

Only the outline of the flake is there still, it is really scary trying to climb the route that way. There is not even a bad pin for pro anymore...

The Madara/Lougee start to the Arete is much better protected than the original. Locate an arch coming into the route from the left. Shove some gear in it and ease into the crux. Access from the higher ledge left of
Rufuse (right of Youth Callenge).
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 11, 2011

I'm suprised that those flakes lasted as long as they did. I think they were called "creaky" 30 years ago.
By samuel von hammerstien
Sep 9, 2013

cleaned the start of the madara/lugee variation this year and the top.

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