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Amazing Face S 
Arch (a.k.a. Ozone), The TR 
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Diagonal Crack T 
Dinosaur S 
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Ozone Direct T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Claude Fiddler and Patrick Sawyer, ca. 1974
Page Views: 4,926
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Laying back on the lower part of ozone

Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock MORE INFO >>>


Lieback the left side of the arch until you're almost to the top, then reach left to the thin crack above the roof, traverse this up and right until it joins a wider, vertical crack. Follow this one to the top. Ozone is a really unique climb that requires a lot of upper body strength.


The furthest left climb on the lower tier.


There is a tree above the route to set a top rope on. Approach it by hiking up the steep trail left of the lower tier. Go right towards the face at the first turn. Bring long slings.

Photos of The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: ozone at the boyscout rocks  by Ed Dees
ozone at the boyscout rocks by Ed Dees
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to get out of the first part of the climb. ...
Trying to get out of the first part of the climb. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on the upper flake.
Paul on the upper flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: crack start, which is ozone proper
BETA PHOTO: crack start, which is ozone proper
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul under the first roof.
Paul under the first roof.

Comments on The Arch (a.k.a. Ozone) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 9, 2017
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2002

Excellent route. I still remember doing this one 15 years ago. One of the best routes at Mt. Diablo.
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 21, 2002

This route was quite fun, the pull up moves over the roof are interesting and puzzling. I hope you like laybacks.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 12, 2002

I remember this one from way back too. It was a blast I always loved playing around with different lie backs and underclings. I always felt that to complete the route speed was the order of the day. If you get stuck trying to make the transition from the crack system to the face you'll burn out the old forearms suffling back and forth.If you don't mind some swinging if you fall on top rope there are several mini climbs all along this one stretch.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Mar 24, 2003

Ozone is a great route and although we toproped the route it could be a pretty safe lead. Good jamming techniques above the arch make this upper section not too difficult. Without make it VERY difficult!We didn't tape up and hands got a little beat up. All in all, a very fun route! The variation makes for some very interesting face moves!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Steep and reachy- powerful.

Rack from .5" to #4-Camalot cams- double 3-4" if you like a lot of pro. Cruxes are at #4 Camalot and at 2.5" The top balancey move is near a placement for a small TCU or microcam.

The 2-star rating here definitely is 'for the area' in other places, it would be lacking quality. There are definately better climbs on the cliff.

5.10c is fair, or maybe 10b. Good jamming and stemming keeps it within reason and gives enough rest so as not to make the ascent a horse-race.
By Patrick Sawyer
From: Californian Living in Ireland
Jun 8, 2006

We use to just call it The Arch, and I can say with certainty, having climbed Diablo since 1968 on a regular basis, that Claude Fiddler and I freed this in 1974, or was it 1973? Both the dihedral and the direct start. I don't know who named it but it could have been Claude at a later date. I'll ask him since we just got in contact for the first time in well over 20 years thanks to the internet (through, great forum). It is a fun climb and one of my favorites on Diablo, where I cut my teeth and first started climbing. Haven't been there for over ten years as I am now living in Ireland (born and raised in Walnut Creek and Lafayette). I'd be curious to how crowded it gets nowadays, what with the growing popularity of climbing and number of climbing gyms.
By Greg Collins
Jul 2, 2007

anybody lead this route? Ive top-roped it a few times and feel like the pro beneath the roof is reasonable. a bit concerned about blowing it out though
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 5, 2007

I've lead it. It's a pretty safe lead, just double up under the roof and you won't have to wory about blowing anything out.
By Peter Rakowitz
From: Portland, OR
Jun 7, 2010

what a cool route! hand crack off width slab roof finger locking fun!
By Daniel Hottinger
Aug 29, 2011

There is now a two bolt anchor at the top. You still might want to have the rope around the tree when setting up TR since the anchor is a bit far out.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Led this route last weekend. Good pro, except for the last 15 feet or so to the anchors. Need to make two 5.9 moves well above the last good piece. I think someone else said you can protect with a this rock...haha...good sense of humor.
By Bill Price
Oct 26, 2016

Thanks for the history on this, Patrick. I was climbing here with Mike Borris and Mark Rommel in '75/76. (See my comments for Amazing Face and Bolt (Ladder) Route). After getting my crack schooling in Yosemite, I easily led this with a couple large hexes in the initial Arch and a couple small ones in the upper crack. Would not even think of leading it now, too old and comfortable on a top rope or clipping bolts.
By Matt Cox
Feb 9, 2017

I remember climbing this route in 1976 along with several others in this cliff lots of fun

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