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Unsorted Routes:

The Apology Foot Rub 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Galen Vansant & Kiersten Johnson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Terramariner on Jul 15, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Noah enjoying hand jams on The Apology Foot Rub.

Description 

Jam and layback up the flake system and over an easy overlap. Enjoy climbing hands with just enough flare to keep it interesting. Finish goes right and up the dihedral to the large ledge. You could also finish by traversing left along the jug rail to the finish of TYP.

Location 

Start in the flake system to the left of the crisscrossing cracks.

Protection 

Single Rack (doubles in .5 and .75 is nice)
2 Bolt Anchor


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By The Shocker
Jul 20, 2016

Fun route. The crack felt Maybe 5.7. Finished straight up the slab to the anchor. The last move up the slab felt like 5.8 maybe. I'm not good with grades though.
The ASCA bolt police are going to have a fit.... The anchor isn't STAINLESS!!! Oh nooooooo!!!! Someone is going to die! In 45 years. Maybe. If they load up the anchor with elephants.
Thanks for the scrub job.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jul 21, 2016

Go check out the rusty bolts on freedom roof. Andy. 45 years? Ha! You're really confused by this whole bolting thing, aren't you?
By The Shocker
Jul 22, 2016

I guess after 20+ years of placing and clipping bolts in the Talkeetnas, I'm pretty clueless. Maybe I should get myself one of those Junior Ranger bolt sheriff badges you're so proud of.
Where did you get that anyway? Are they still giving them out at the ARG when you send the pink route? Maybe when you volunteer to be a mountain project "administrator" you are elevated to a higher plane of knowledge and duly awarded? Or did you get yours from a Cracker Jack box?
Was Garvey confused when he drilled the anchor on Slab Trek P1? 1/4 non STAINLESS!!!! The horror!!!

Are you, Lung, going to charge out and "fix" this route for us? Or just sit around the nice safe rock gym proselytizing and trying to impress some clueless beaters?
By Griswald
Jul 22, 2016

I believe the real problem is not PS, but mixing PS and stainless. fixehardware.com/shop/mixing-m...
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jul 22, 2016

You actually have to climb the blue route... and my name is intestine...
By Mat Brunton
Jul 23, 2016

Classic Alaskan commentary; can't be beat.

This route is fun with good rock. Thanks for the work cleaning it, and it will only improve with more climbing.

Definitely worthwhile.

Exiting the hand crack left to a lower anchor on the main rock wall makes for an easier exit than dealing with the upper anchor over the grass ledge from that low angle slab crack.

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