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The Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Kevin Thaw, 1988, FL: Hamish Morrison, Mike Rodriguez, Alan Bartlett, 1989
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: john durr on Apr 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Shenanigans like a stick clip help get the first bolt clipped. Jump or more shenanigans gain the first big hold. The crux for me was clipping the third bolt. An extendo-clip quick draw may be handy to overcome the 3rd bolt location issue.

Tall people rejoice.


This is the short, juggy 3 bolt face right of the start of Exorcist and It.


3 great bolts, 1"-3" cams for belay. Follow the finger crack second half of It, 5.9 to the bolted rappel anchors of Exorcist to the left. One 60 meter rope just makes it.

Comments on The Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls) Add Comment
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By dgerb
Nov 18, 2013

If you want to dyno to the sharp first hold, I suggest you tape the top joint of the middle fingers of your right hand. This will prevent you from flaying your fingers Theon Greyjoy style.

I didn't have enough daylight to climb the top half so I left a bail link on the third bolt. Enjoy!
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 1, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

2nd bolt is really spinning and was terrifying to climb above. Top bolt with bail link was also loose. I stemmed the corner near It for a few moves and then edged over /long finger tip reach across to the first jug. Big swing to a "gotcha b*tch" grab onto the first jug. Exciting!
By dnaiscool
Apr 12, 2015

I followed Dave Tidwell here on a very cold day. Cranking the opening "Tall Person" moves I snapped my tips off the crimper and flayed all 4 knuckles into ragged shards. I had to take ten to stop the blood bath and tape the mess shut. Good name...

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