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Ant Boulder
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Ant Arete 
Ant Traverse, The 
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The Ant Traverse 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 30'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
Page Views: 1,572
Submitted By: Joe Stern on Jun 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Starting moves


Start in the crack/seam of Jason's Favorite and traverse left, topping out on Aunt Bea (V4-5) or Flying Ant (> V5). Many possible variations.

I've only done it by traversing into the two obvious starting holes of Aunt Bea and going up from there. This seems like the most natural finish with the boulder's current conditions.

The traverse past the two holes gets quite thin very quickly. I suspect that continuing the traverse to finish on Flying Ant is harder than V5, but probably not by too much.


A right to left traverse on the back side of the Ant Boulder.


Crash pad/none

Photos of The Ant Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left/center of the back side of the Ant Boulder.
Left/center of the back side of the Ant Boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Working through the moves
Working through the moves
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ant Traverse, V4-5. Back side of Ant Boulder.....
BETA PHOTO: The Ant Traverse, V4-5. Back side of Ant Boulder.....

Comments on The Ant Traverse Add Comment
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By Sean Denny
From: Irvine
Aug 18, 2010
rating: V5 6C

I never did figure out how to top it out via the left arete. It always seemed much more natural to start heading up once you hit the two holes. Several holds have broken since I first did this climb (~3 years ago), but I think it the only change is that one or two of the starting moves are a bit harder.
Great climb, excellent for building endurance and technique on crappy feet.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 21, 2010

This is really jolting my memory but it used to be V3 and I'm not a bit surprised that it's harder. The left arete used to be the easiest top out. Of course the crux of the traverse was getting to the start of this top out. Heading up the "natural" way (I do see how you'd say that) used to be much easy. But that's the nature of this place. At least you never get too bored of the problems before they change, especially long crimpy ones like this.
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Sep 22, 2010

Thanks for the comments/info Sean and Steve. I've updated the description to reflect these perspectives.

I should also add that my enthusiasm for this problem comes from its uniquely long, crimpy, and fairly sustained nature. The Ant is a quality boulder, and the medium difficulty traverses (also see the newly added Arachnophobia ) are just as good as the easier slab problems.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Oct 19, 2013

This is so much harder now than when I first did it.

But I'm done whining...

Great traverse, and an absolute textbook on open-hand crimping.
By Joseph Legotte
May 8, 2014
rating: V4+ 6B+

One of my favorite problems at the Yard and my first 4/5 to boot. I finished up holes myself, and would say it goes at a 4. The movement is not incredibly hard, just takes a bit to work out the foot beta.

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