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The Anonymous Arete Boulder
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Anonymous Arete, The 

The Anonymous Arete 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Anonymous!
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: bheller on Nov 14, 2014

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Sick problem! A left toe hook really locks you in ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

An Overlooked Gem 

Locate the steep western arete feature that has a small and mostly flat starting area nestled between a few small maple trees to the right and a rock corridor to the left. Find the true sit start on obvious low crimps which lack any really good places to start your feet. One of the crimps is a thin, yet solid wafer-type hold. Find your magic body position, crimp hard, and throw your left hand up and left to a slopey left facing rail. Next a long move with your right hand to another beautiful sculpted sloper well above head height when you are sitting. Reset your hands and position and go big off the slopers with the right hand to the distant yet positive lip. Another move with the left hand to a huge edge and a final long move to the top lip of the boulder.

Location 

Between the parking lot and the Round Room boulder, and a bit higher up slope. One of the few obvious lines in the area.

Walk down the slab to the south, or scooch down into the corridor to the north.

Protection 

Crash pad over the stump is nice.


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By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 14, 2014

V5 in the black bible... yeah, I'm creeping some of those grades...trying to be honest
By Nat Smale
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 14, 2014

I agree on the grade. The dyno to the lip is tough, especially after doing the first couple of moves. Took me a few sessions. Excellent problem. East Gate is great. Another good one there is Matt's Problem.

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