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Approaching Armageddon  T 
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The Angry Inch 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matthew Keefe 10/2001
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Eric Leclerc on Jul 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: A line that needs recent ascent in order to confir...

Description 

This route has no consensus as far as grade goes.
The guidebook says "everything from 5.11d to 5.13!".

The bottom has nice holds. It starts in the dihedral/ramp. It goes up to the right and once you have a nice jug, you clip the third bolt on your left. Make a big move to another good hold and then start the traverse to the left on good feet. You can also use crimps to get to the jug without going way right. Clip the fourth then mantel to get established on the face.
From here... good luck!!!
For beta, you can read Lee's comment below.
The moves after the crux are quite easy.

Location 

One of the first routes you will encounter when coming up from the trail that goes through the boulder field. Second bolted line right of Scrubbing Bubbas.

Protection 

5 bolts to LO


Photos of The Angry Inch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cutting loose for a sec, mid route...
Cutting loose for a sec, mid route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me sticking the "impossible" crux move o...
Me sticking the "impossible" crux move o...

Comments on The Angry Inch Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2017
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 2, 2014

I have heard that it is very height dependent; nearly impossible if you are short. Matt's mother forgot him on the stretching machine when he was a child.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jul 2, 2014

That's a good one!!!
I am 6'0" tall and my partner is 6'2". We both think there was something for your right hand that broke. There is discoloration beside a pointy piece of rock that you want to use with your right hand but it is nearly impossible to use it.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I checked this thing out yesterday. Seemed doable but quite hard...
in the beginning, at the second bolt I traversed left on hard crimps... Did a few layback moves to a killer jug to make the 3rd clip... I was actually able to get a good (partially no-hand) rest here... Technical moves got me to the "impossible" move. I think with the correct balance i could make it happen, I'm nursing a bad finger right now and couldn't really bear down for the move... Left hand smooth arête right hand micro crimp the goal is a nice I cut hold pretty far away... But anyway.... I can't wait to try it again once I'm back in action I love this kind of climbing...
By ward smith
Jul 5, 2015

I checked it out last month Lee. I think from the last bolt you can jump up and right for a dirty hold.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 5, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Thanks ward, that's pretty much what I was thinking but I will look to be sure I'm going for the right hold :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 22, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The moment many (ok, a few) have been waiting for! I sent this thing :)
My vote is in the 12c range (if you are 6' tall ish) Harder if short for sure...

SPOILER ALERT! RIDICULOUS MICRO BETA!
From the rest with my right heel in the jug, I had a left hand on the Arete and right hand on a small side pull crimp way out right, brought my right foot quite high to the left end of the edge that sits on top of the big side pull jug (this foot makes for great balance) left heel around the Arete, left hand goes up to a "nothing hold" tiny undercling edge, left foot to a crimp
Near the Arete (balance is super sensitive here) dynamically shift weight to the left foot and go right hand up to the good hold that marks the end of the crux.... Dynamic for sure but not a jump really...

I'll post photos soon ish
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 22, 2015

Great job Lee!!! I lowered the grade to 12c since we have your opinion. We will see what the consensus is as people go on it.
Thanks for the beta but man it is not easy to understand... I will have to go back on it and read your beta many times.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 22, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Thanks man!
And yeah, the beta will make more sense once All the holds are fresh in your mind...
It is hyper-technical...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 23, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I HAVE CORRECTED THE NAME OF THE ROUTE... I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY MULTILPE PEOPLE THAT IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE ANGRY INCH WHICH MAKE SENSE IF YOU ARE FAMILIAR WITH CERTAIN MUSICALS...
By mk143 Keefe
Mar 22, 2017

The name comes from certain safety equipment used when establishing the route.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
May 28, 2017

Thank you Lee for your very efficient beta. It still took me a while to find the so called "nothing hold" tiny undercling edge. I was focusing too much on the undercling part of your description. Oh my God this hold is just invisible but once you do it right, it's all you need to make it through the crux. I have a wingspan of 6'0" and I barely made it so shorter people will need to be creative. I totally agree with the 12c.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Great work Eric!! I'm glad my beta helped :)

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