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The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)
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The Angel of Death (formerly listed as Drink to Puke) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Endicott & George Bracksieck, 1981, Bolted: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, Tom Englebach, and Dave Salisbury, 1996.
Page Views: 1,299
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Lots of air below you on this one.... Photo: Roth.

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  • Description 

    This is the rightmost of three bolted lines on the Beer Can. It turns the huge roof on the right.

    From the top of the approach trail to the Beer Can, scramble up to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay anchor. Continue 20' right to another 2-bolt belay anchor; start here.

    Climb up toward the right side of the roof, onto a ramp, then chimney and stem (crux) around the roof. Continue up a slab/corner and angle left to the anchor.

    Rolofson calls this route 10c, but it seemed easier.


    2-bolt belay anchor. 14 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor. Bring a 60m rope and several longer runners.

    The top anchor is shared by all three bolted routes on the rock.

    Photos of The Angel of Death (formerly listed as Drink to Puke) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the start.
    Near the start.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Turning the corner.  Photo: Roth.
    BETA PHOTO: Turning the corner. Photo: Roth.

    Comments on The Angel of Death (formerly listed as Drink to Puke) Add Comment
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    By George Bracksieck
    May 30, 2011

    Mike Endicott led me up this route in Sept 1981. Most of the climb had no good pro. We called it (and the rock) The Angel of Death. The rock resembles a Darth Vader-like creature with wings folded down. The route climbs along the left edge of the right-hand wing.
    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    May 30, 2011

    George, that must have been an impressive lead by Mike. I can imagine there was hardly any gear at all let alone any good gear. Since there was no record of your ascent on the rock or any guidebook as of 1996, we bolted it. If you guys are sure this is the same line (and I believe it probably is) and Mike wishes to see the bolts removed, I will gladly remove them.
    We named it the Beer Can for the 30 year old Coors Cans we found wedged on the summit block. Peace, Steve S.
    By George Bracksieck
    Jun 1, 2011

    Steve -- No worries. I don't think first ascenders own the rock, anyway.

    Every time I've driven up the canyon since we climbed it, I've reminisced about it. Now I'd like to clip those bolts (and the others on the rock). So leave 'em there.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 1, 2011

    Wow, you guys play nicely together. Ice cream for both of you!
    Seriously- I wouldn't have guessed that it was a free route before the bolts either, so I can see where the mistake got made. Nice that you are both taking it in stride.
    By George Bracksieck
    Sep 25, 2015

    A few years ago, Mike and I went back. Clipping the 14 bolts, I led this climb, the top of which seemed different from what I remembered. The climb that Mike led in 1981 didn't have a #3 Friend placement at the top of the dihedral, as does this climb. As I brought Mike up, he noted that he had exited left in 1981 (on what is now known as "Icy Paralyser") where that line of bolts diverges from this one.

    Yesterday, we climbed "Hydraulic Sandwich" and "Icy Paralyzer." We now firmly agree that "Icy" was MIke's lead in '81, when he placed maybe a couple/three wires and one or two Friends on the whole pitch. Only four sizes of rigid-stemmed Friends were available. A #1 Friend might have been placed after exiting from the main dihedral, to the left.

    We thought our 1981 route was 5.10. That's one reason that I later assumed we had done "DtP" — it is rated 5.10.

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