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The Ancient of Days 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rossiter, 1997? free solo. Retrobolted by ?
Page Views: 1,355
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Jun 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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The crux overhang....

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  • Description 

    A few different people warned me how crappy this crag was. Today I decided to see for myself.... While it is true that lots of the rock up here is like a rotten road cut, this route on the other hand was great. It is one of the best kept secrets in Boulder Canyon! Normally I wouldn't support the addition of 9 retro-bolts, but this route is great fun in its current condition. Hopefully it was bolted by the FA or at least with his permission? I would certainly recommend this to a beginner leader. The well-protected crux is at the first roof and didn't feel much harder than 5.7. The guidebooks give this a 5.9 rating, but you'd have to try really hard to make it feel that difficult.

    The somewhat long approach (by Boulder Canyon standards) and the lack of other easy sport routes will probably doom this route to obscurity, but if you are looking for an easy sport route with a nice flat base, well-featured, and well-protected rock in a remote peaceful spot, this could be the route your looking for? The views of Castle Rock alone justify the hike....


    This is the bolt line on the left face of the giant open book at the right side of the Left Mountain Rose crag.


    9 bolts and anchor.

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    By Mark Rolofson
    Apr 15, 2015
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Truly a nice piece of stone. A beautiful place to climb when the flowers are blooming. The route length seems closer to 80 feet, not just 50 feet. You could rate it 5.8 or 5.9- depending on how you climb over the first roof.
    By Rob Roy Ramey
    Jul 16, 2015

    Warren Shelly and I did this route on trad gear in 1997. It was likely climbed earlier as it is the natural line. Back then, the first placements were marginal cams and nuts under the roof, making the roof moves a bit more thrilling. As Rolofson noted, it is ~80' long, on good rock, and has nice views of Castle Rock. The trad gear on this one was never all that good, but if you want some practice with marginal trad placements, bring some small cams along.

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