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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
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Barbershop Duet T 
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Boats from Cuba T 
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Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
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Climb and Punishment S 
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Clusterphobia S 
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Fish Corner  S 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
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Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mentally Disturbed S 
Mesresha S 
Metamorphosis S 
Mitosis S 
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 
Rainbow S 
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Slack T 
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White Buttress, The T 

The Anchovy Caper 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 3,123
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (155)
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nicole starting up anchovy


Another nice recent addition to the area. The climbing on the slabby section is technical and thought provoking. The bottom is the crux for most (unless the trees are used for feet).

Start up the face between the trees on sidepulls and crimps till you can gain the lower angle face above. Continue following the bolts while you smear and layback your way past good flakes on the left to the top. This upper part is very fun if you like that kind of stuff.


Around the corner left of Green Mile (5.9) starting between a couple of trees.


7 bolts to bolt anchor.

Photos of The Anchovy Caper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim having fun.
Tim having fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: KLS getting on this awesome climb!
KLS getting on this awesome climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: the route starts between 2 trees, with the first m...
BETA PHOTO: the route starts between 2 trees, with the first m...
Rock Climbing Photo: eric tops out
eric tops out
Rock Climbing Photo: eric down low
eric down low
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole at the top
nicole at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: the line of anchovie caper
BETA PHOTO: the line of anchovie caper

Comments on The Anchovy Caper Add Comment
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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Unless you're really solid at 5.8 I'd recommend stick clipping this. Moves at the bottom are very thoughtful (and yes, "bouldery" whatever the heck that actually means). Once above those moves and at the second bolt, it still has a couple interesting moves left. It's definitely a worth while climb.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, glad I decided to get on it. I found the smoothest way to do that last mantle is to get the best left hand on the sloping rail, then palm on the flat edge with your right, then mantle it through. Felt not-awkward, which is impressive for me and mantling.
By S. Neoh
Nov 24, 2012

Two or 2.5 stars for sure though I think Maltese Falcon and Metamorphosis (both nearby) are better at 5.8/5.8+.
By Russ Keane
Jul 15, 2017

Pretty straightforward at the grade. Nice climb. Plenty of options to get to the first bolt, it's right where it needs to be.

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