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Stonehouse Pond
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Geezer Pleaser T 
Amazing Schlingazi, The T 
Bald Man In A Boat S 
Barrington Hot Pocket S 
Barrington Levy TR 
BBB route, The T 
Day After My Birthday ( is not my birthday mum), The S 
Desperation T 
Down By Law S 
Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal T 
Hymie's Last Stand aka Karin's Route T 
Joke Book T 
Luna S 
Moe Howard Died For Our Sins S 
Nose , The T 
Roost, The T,TR 
Sicilian Olympics S 
Son of Snake T,TR 
Trundle Drunk Express T 

The Amazing Schlingazi 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Joe Terravecchia and Will Carey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,182
Submitted By: WillCarey on Aug 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Will Carey climbing The Amazing Schlingazi

Description 

Moderate unprotected climbing leads up to the first bolt at about 30 feet (you could also get here by following the bolts on the route to the right). The route continues up and right through a series of horizontals to the last bolt and crux.

Location 

Climbs the overhanging face just left of the obvious right facing corner at the top of the trail

Protection 

2 bolts #3 and .75 camalots
LO Anchors on the slab above


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By Eli Buzzell
From: Lives in a 4runner
Mar 14, 2016

Adding a bolt to the lower slab would make this route more enjoyable, but at the given 12a grade it feels pretty impossible anyway.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Apr 29, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Clipping the first four bolts of Desperation sets you up nicely for this route. Fun climbing above the overlap with big moves. Didn't use a #3, .75 fits perfectly right where you want it.