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The Adjustor Boulder
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Adjustor, The 
Long Dong 

The Adjustor 

Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 9'
Original:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: Anthony DiSanto 2002
Page Views: 237
Submitted By: skinny legs and all on Feb 8, 2014

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Description 

The Adjustor is one of the better known problems of it's grade at the main Mount Gretna area, but is not one of the best quality problems. The name comes from holds breaking on the upper half after the first ascent, which required an adjustment in movement and beta and how to use the new and different handholds. The sequences and handholds went through changes for the first couple of years. Today, and for the last nine years or so, everything has stayed solid.

Begin by sit starting with your butt on the ground or on a single pad. The right hand is in a large, incut triangular tooth down low and the left hand on a gaston three-quarter pad edge. The starting footholds are large and flat, especially for diabase. The hips should be in close to the wall. Pull on and rock up hard on the right foot to grasp the main hold of the climb; a gaston that is held with the right hand and contains a contorted thumb catch underneath.

Perch the right foot on the right hand starting tooth and shove in a marginal right knee scum beneath the diagonal roof to keep you in close to the wall for when you release a handhold. Bump the left hand to a undercling on the roof feature with the elbow sticking straight up. Shift the right foot up a few inches to a good foothold. Release the right hand from the gaston to reach the right hand again high to a sloping edge feature. The middle, index and pinky fingers should go on a three finger tiny diagonal crimp that lies over a subtle sloper, while the index finger alone grabs a tiny edge that faces diagonally but at a 90 degree angle change from the other fingers, kind of like a star.

Keep tension and reach the left hand to a broken, third pad left facing sidepull edge with a bit of an incut. This hold is one of those that broke, but what is left now is fairly solid and good. Stand up high and run the feet up and left a bit so you can bust the right hand to the good flat lip. From here it is over, get the left hand up to a hold just beneath the lip and mantel with the right leg.

The whole idea of this bloc is tension. The holds are poor and none of the moves are particularly long. It is just about making intermediate movements between bad holds that all face the wrong way. If one of your appendages does not execute correctly or loses contact with the rock for more than a second, you are off.

All in all, this is a cool problem and you will feel great if you can figure it out. It seems so simple upon first glance, but is much more difficult than it appears. The slash grade comes from it being V8 if the features and length between the holds fit you, which seems to be about 5'11'' +/- one inch. If you are shorter like me at 5'7'', it seems harder. I don't know about tall guys over 6 foot. They may have an even easier time on it.

Location 

The right side, slightly overhanging face on the Adjustor boulder.

Protection 

One pad is adequate, no spotter necessary.


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