The Acrophile Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The west face and overhangs of The Acrophile. Lith...
The Acrophile is one of the largest rocks in the SSV, and it is composed of some of the best rock in the canyon. It is a moderate trad climbers paradise with over 20 crack climbs ascending the southwest face. The routes range from 75 feet to 200 feet in length. The rock gets sun midday until late afternoon. Most routes are worthy of a star or two, with an amazing three star route thrown in. Two 100' rappels or a walkoff to the south are available
The rock's namesake is a wild 5.11 roof pulled via an offwidth. There are a couple other old routes; however, most were climbed recently by B. Gillett and friends.
The Acrophile sits high on the south side of the canyon just above a large paved pulloff with some picnic tables. It is approximately 7 miles from Lyons. If you reach the upper toilets, turn around and look for the massive rock a mile down canyon.
Access is typical SSV. The river can be crossed slightly upstream during low water with a boulder hop, or waded downstream (6" to 1.5' deep)during higher flows. Once across the river one can hike up the gully to the right until it is possible to cut up the hillside to the rock (brushy and Ivy), or go straight up the buttress through a break in the cliffs above the river (loose). Once on the buttress, some wandering down onto the south slope is needed to avoid cliff bands and boulders.
Climbing Season For the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon area.
Weather station 8.9 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Acrophile
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Acrophile:
Lithophyte 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Acrophobia 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For The Acrophile
Black Powder 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Colorado
: ... : The Acrophile
This climb starts where the 4th class approach deposits you on the ledge system. P1: (5.7, 75 feet, 2 stars) Follow one of the 5.6-5.7 crack systems to the right of the 5.11 bolted slab. Belay on the ledge to the right of the RF dihedral.P2: (5.9+, 75 feet, 2 stars) The crux pitch climbs a fun, RF dihedral with arching roof. I would recommend placing gear in the right seam and using long runners on the gear in the roof. I guess the rope will jam in the roof crack. Belay at two pins.P3: (5.5, 10...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
BETA PHOTO: The Acrophile from the West.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2014
How is the approach since the flood?