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The Abyss 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Merril Bitter
Page Views: 3,381
Submitted By: Tyler Logan on Mar 16, 2008  with updates from John Ross

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Reed fighting for it. Photo: Jason Eichorst

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Pumpy and powerful, with a distinct crux near the end. Contains nice pockets, but also some very slippery, polished edges.


Left end of the Division Wall


6 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos of The Abyss Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the lip on The Abyss. Props to Jonathan Cr...
Pulling the lip on The Abyss. Props to Jonathan Cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working on "The Abyss" (1996)
Working on "The Abyss" (1996)

Comments on The Abyss Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2017
By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Jul 26, 2012

It would be nice if whoever stole my top draws on this would give them back, I left three on the bolts after deep end breaks off. the disappeared about a week ago and I only had them up for maybe 2 before.
By zoso
Jul 26, 2012

I think the word you were looking for wasn't "stole", but "cleaned". As you apparently abandoned them for 3 weeks, they were no longer yours.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 27, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Very fun route, with a bouldery finish.
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 19, 2013

I enjoyed this route. Stays with you, and the fun comes right before the anchors.
By Rob Phillips
Jun 13, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

After watching Merril Bitter run five consecutive laps on this, I started thinking maybe I could do at least one! After he did his second set of five laps, I was convinced. I hopped on, but I couldn't even make it to the chains! Haha! I watched him do five more laps (yes, he was now at 15 total) and I decided to give it another go. I did make it to the top this time with a few hangs, before Merril was back on and finished his last set of five, for a nice round 20 laps! It was seriously amazing to watch. Seemingly effortless precision and control. Thanks for the inspiration. I did go back a few weeks later and sent it! Just once though ;)
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 26, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Seems pretty absurd for someone to suggest this is a 12c. Easy climbing to a V5, to a poor shake, to a V6 finish. Hard at 12d.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 3, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I banged my head against the division wall like 12 times in stubborn blindness trying to use the ticked crappy crimp/pinch out left to reach the jug over the roof to finish, whipping constantly at the same move. Luckily I discovered on my 13th go that the small slender female fingers of my left hand could fit in the top slider pocket normally used as a right hand cross through, a simple bump making Brad Heller's accurately described v6 problem into a casual v4.

Discovering this beta was like being spiritually reborn, allowing me to rise from the abyss. Fat fingered folk will likely be unable to use this apostolic blessing without tape and superglue. Finger tissue infarction takes hours. A send will only take minutes. Godspeed.

Clipping the single fixed anchor draw off the jugger slot without doing the final move is what your fairy godmother would do.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 26, 2014

A fun (and spicy!) finish: head to the lone set of chains up and to the right (iimediately to the left of the anchors of shallow beginnings), runout about fifteen feet or so. Probably adds a letter grade of hard slab, and comes with obligatory massive falls.
By Michael Schmenk
From: South Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 11, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Felt like 12c to me.
By ferrells
Oct 31, 2015

How has nobody responded to Zoso's comment above? It's ok to steal draws off a route someone is projecting? Incorrect.
By Nolan Ingersoll
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Aug 17, 2017
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Got on The Abyss this morning and there were 4 draws left on the route. The Little Mill grounds keeper does not approve of this and this should be respected. We left them all on the first bolt. We are going back saturday and if they are still there we will probably consider them booty, which many would have done in the first place.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Sep 14, 2017
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Repeated this recently. It's not getting easier, you're just getting stronger. Still 12d.

Leaving fixed draws on this route is just lazy. Run up Deep End for a warm up and hang your draws. Cleaning them is dead easy.

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