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Hidden Heavenly Slab
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The 7th Way 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 430'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'/08'
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,888
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Oct 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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The beautiful 4th pitch. TP on the FFA Photo by M...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of my personal favorites in the canyon.

P1. Start on the far right side beginning up steep roofy terrain. Find a fixed pin, above the pin a large cam gets things started about 15 feet up (easy), from the cam climb up passing 3 bolts to the roof. From here shuffle left and up and over roof using a very cool finger pocket. 5.10+

P2. From chain belay/rap climb up to the left of the small pine growing out of the roof. Once you gain the slab proper climb up nice features passing 2 bolts to a big ledge and common belay/rap w/ 6 Ways From Sunday.5.6
A few all gear variations have been climbed around this pitch all checking in around 5.6/5.7

P3. Use the same start as 6 Ways but after you clip the 2nd bolt climb straight up (instead of traversing on the ramp/crack) placing small TCU’s in horizontals. Aim for the black flake, once you get to the flake clip a bolt above it and make some fun moves to the belay. 5.8+
One of the best slab pitches up here

P4. From belay climb out and left into space. # .75 camalot gets things rolling, from there climb up steep features clipping numerous bolts. From the right facing corner climb up and left out of it onto an exposed slab. Make a "footless" traverse left onto the slab. Launch straight up into the shallow left facing corner and persevere to the chains. 5.11

P5. Climb up behind the big bush clipping a bolt and a pin or two. Steep moves with wild exposer are memorable. Short. 5.10+

Location 

On the far right side of the Hidden Heavenly Slab is a steep overhang. The 1st pitch starts up this. Rap route.

(see topo)

This is also the raps down for 6 ways From Sunday

Protection 

(1) #4 camalot (2) #1 Metoilus and a rack to fill the in between. Slings nice. 60M rope



Photos of The 7th Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch 7th Way  Photo: Andrew Burr '08
1st pitch 7th Way Photo: Andrew Burr '08

Comments on The 7th Way Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Jul 25, 2009

Pitch 1 is pretty fun with lots of finesse. Pitch 3 is a fun slab. Pitch 4 is the goods, with unexpected rests and features you wouldn't expect to link up as well as they do. From start to finish, this pitch is pretty dang cool. I especially liked the exit moves. For some reason this one reminds me of a more sustained, 5.11 Refugees from Reality.

You might be able to use a #3 camalot on Pitch 5 between the first bolt and the piton to reduce some of the sketch. Don't blow the move to the second bolt or the easy finish mantle. This short pitch felt a lot more serious than the others but the moves were cool.
By bsmoot
Aug 22, 2009

Pitch 4 is excellent...it's quite improbable, strenuous and thought provoking. Clay, I must have missed all of those "hidden" rests you were talking about!
By Mark Shah
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Really nice route. On the 5th pitch, there is a good spot for a 0.75 cam between the bolt and the piton. We did not find any need for a #4 camalot.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun route. Pitch 4 is a must-do for any granite aficionado. A few observations:
- there are two bolted lines out the roof on P1. The left seemed like the easier option.
- A single rack from .4 cam to a 2 cam would seem adequate. Bring 5 long slings and at least 10 draws.
- The rap from the top of P2 to P1 is longer than a single 60m will allow. I would recommend a single 70m.
By rig
Aug 26, 2014

We used a single rack from .3 to #3 camalot, mostly on the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Super fun route, except for the 5th pitch which was a little short and not that fun.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Jul 3, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great route! All pitches are exceptional imo with the stand outs being Pitch 3 and 4. I used a fair amount of medium stoppers, and single set from 00 C3 - #1 Camalot. Did not use #2 or #3 ever.

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