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Hidden Heavenly Slab
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The 7th Way 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 430'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'/08'
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,820
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Oct 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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The beautiful 4th pitch. TP on the FFA Photo by M...


One of my personal favorites in the canyon.

P1. Start on the far right side beginning up steep roofy terrain. Find a fixed pin, above the pin a large cam gets things started about 15 feet up (easy), from the cam climb up passing 3 bolts to the roof. From here shuffle left and up and over roof using a very cool finger pocket. 5.10+

P2. From chain belay/rap climb up to the left of the small pine growing out of the roof. Once you gain the slab proper climb up nice features passing 2 bolts to a big ledge and common belay/rap w/ 6 Ways From Sunday.5.6
A few all gear variations have been climbed around this pitch all checking in around 5.6/5.7

P3. Use the same start as 6 Ways but after you clip the 2nd bolt climb straight up (instead of traversing on the ramp/crack) placing small TCU’s in horizontals. Aim for the black flake, once you get to the flake clip a bolt above it and make some fun moves to the belay. 5.8+
One of the best slab pitches up here

P4. From belay climb out and left into space. # .75 camalot gets things rolling, from there climb up steep features clipping numerous bolts. From the right facing corner climb up and left out of it onto an exposed slab. Make a "footless" traverse left onto the slab. Launch straight up into the shallow left facing corner and persevere to the chains. 5.11

P5. Climb up behind the big bush clipping a bolt and a pin or two. Steep moves with wild exposer are memorable. Short. 5.10+


On the far right side of the Hidden Heavenly Slab is a steep overhang. The 1st pitch starts up this. Rap route.

(see topo)

This is also the raps down for 6 ways From Sunday


(1) #4 camalot (2) #1 Metoilus and a rack to fill the in between. Slings nice. 60M rope

Photos of The 7th Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch 7th Way  Photo: Andrew Burr '08
1st pitch 7th Way Photo: Andrew Burr '08

Comments on The 7th Way Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Jul 25, 2009

Pitch 1 is pretty fun with lots of finesse. Pitch 3 is a fun slab. Pitch 4 is the goods, with unexpected rests and features you wouldn't expect to link up as well as they do. From start to finish, this pitch is pretty dang cool. I especially liked the exit moves. For some reason this one reminds me of a more sustained, 5.11 Refugees from Reality.

You might be able to use a #3 camalot on Pitch 5 between the first bolt and the piton to reduce some of the sketch. Don't blow the move to the second bolt or the easy finish mantle. This short pitch felt a lot more serious than the others but the moves were cool.
By bsmoot
Aug 22, 2009

Pitch 4 is's quite improbable, strenuous and thought provoking. Clay, I must have missed all of those "hidden" rests you were talking about!
By Mark Shah
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Really nice route. On the 5th pitch, there is a good spot for a 0.75 cam between the bolt and the piton. We did not find any need for a #4 camalot.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun route. Pitch 4 is a must-do for any granite aficionado. A few observations:
- there are two bolted lines out the roof on P1. The left seemed like the easier option.
- A single rack from .4 cam to a 2 cam would seem adequate. Bring 5 long slings and at least 10 draws.
- The rap from the top of P2 to P1 is longer than a single 60m will allow. I would recommend a single 70m.
By rig
Aug 26, 2014

We used a single rack from .3 to #3 camalot, mostly on the 2nd and 3rd pitch. Super fun route, except for the 5th pitch which was a little short and not that fun.

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