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5.8 Exit Crack T 
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Green Arete, The T 
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Ralph Macchio 
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Unsorted Routes:

The 5.8+ Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Flagstaff old school
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Will Cobb on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Lower right lieback/thin hands/deep fingers crack ...

Description 

Located about 100' south of the fence line is a slab split by two cracks. The left crack goes at 5.6 while the right is about 5.8+. Both routes end at a rounded ledge sitting under a steep prow. (This prow is a 12.a TR called Landwhale.)

To climb Unnamed 5.8+, start up a 5.easy slab trending right to the base of the right crack. Climb the crack until it ends, place some gear, then ascend the runout slab above to the finishing ledge. This slab can be scary and a little dangerous. The best holds are a little left of the initial crack line. Going this direction keeps the grade at 5.8+. Staying a little right of the initial crack line is more like 5.9 slab.

Descent - Downclimb 4th and easy 5th class terrain in the gully to the left of this route. A better option is to climb one of the excellent routes above this crack to the clifftop.

Protection 

Half Set Stoppers
.5 - #2 Camalot
Draws/Slings


Comments on The 5.8+ Crack Add Comment
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By Elias Jordan
From: Mazama, WA
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

If you're interested in rope soloing this & the left 5.6 crack you can set up a bottom anchor in a deep flaring pod just below the aforementioned 5.6 with 2x #1 & 1x #2 C4's.

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