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Three Amigos
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3 Amigos, The T 

The 3 Amigos 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 120', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Burcham/Tatum
Season: Year round
Page Views: 1,681
Submitted By: Justin Gallen on Feb 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The route splits the left and right spires.


This route is an all time classic in the making!
Loose on the 1st pitch, but killer on 2 and 3. Beautiful summit views! Check out the Native American ruins at the bottom of the Rappel, but don't disturb them in any way please!

P1- Scramble up chimney and belay on ledge at right.
Awkward move up crack, belay below overhang on choss pile. belay takes .5-2"

P2- Follow crack on overhang on right. Optional belay at the bottom of beautiful 30-40 Ft chimney.
Belay on lower summit takes medium cams.

P3- Walk away from the belay to the step across move. Pocket up high may ease your jitters and keeps the route at 5.9. Belay from tree.

Descent- Scramble down from summit to hidden rap anchors. One 60m rope will get you to the ground.


This route is tricky to find, and the mileage might not be flawless!
Hike up Boynton Canyon for about 1.5 miles. Turn off main trail where wash splits, follow the right wash. Hike up wash for 10 minutes until you see a group of three spires to the right. The 3 Amigos route is on the Northwest side following the crack system between the tallest and middle towers.
An obvious landmark is the gigantic balanced boulder spire.


Standard Rack.
pro to #4, and a #6 could be useful.
No bolts.
Rap Anchors.

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By Chris Tatum
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 13, 2007

It's a pretty good little spire but I wouldn't give it 4 stars... more around 2 or 3. Definitely worth the hike though. Check out the fun 5.10 TR where the rap is. A little dirty. Enjoy.
By Dean Hoffman
Mar 6, 2008

This looks very similar to tip toe thru tulips, is it a diff. route up the same formation? Pretty cool if this is a diff. 3 spire formation with ruins next to it.
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 5, 2009

Just did this over Christmas, and wanted to say that I was very glad to have an old #5 camelot. It was worth its weight.

Whole different canyon than Tip Toe, but just as good a route I'd say. For a short route you feel like you've done quite a bit of climbing by the time you're on the top.
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Sep 20, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yeah, awesome little Sedona climb! Long approach by some standards (1 hr), but easy as they get. Nearly all on Boynton Canyon trail, 10 minutes or less in easy wash. Great fun chimney, and exciting airy two-move finish! Some loose down low, but overall pretty good rock (It's Sedona!).

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