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That's a Rap 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Laine Christman and Alex Alexiades
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Laine Christman on Jan 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the arete. The route starts in the mid...


I've decided to name the climb after the controversy it caused. No disrespect was intented when developing this route, just trying to provide the community with more fun climbs.
That said...Climb up the slab and move out left to a ledge on the arete proper. Clip a bolt and pull a roof (1rst crux). Continue up and right passed three more bolts to a large ledge. From here either 1)traverse right and up to another smaller ledge below a small, right facing corner. Pull the 2nd crux (5.8) and continue up finger cracks to the top or 2)head straight up the face from the last bolt to the top (5.10). This variation is spicy and you will need micro gear to protect.


Start 30' right of main arete.


Gear to 1" and quick draws. Belay/rap from Off Width Out You anchors. Note - a 70m rope barely makes it to base of route. If using 60m, rap to base of OWOY.

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By Healyje
From: PDX
Jan 26, 2011

The consensus might be otherwise:

Rap Bolting at Woodfords, CA
By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 26, 2011

Where to next, bolt the run out sections on Fantasia and Scimitar at The Leap to make it convenient for you? Woodfords was totally all trad... a perfect destination for awesome cracks. your route has a few bomber places to place some pro.

And come on, you could of totally hand drilled half that shit.
By Ron Anderson
Jan 26, 2011

A critique of your route... A) it is CONTRIVED. B) "rope drag" on a rap bolted route DOES NOT indicate quality or thiking. C) The ethics of the canyon have been TRADITIONAL. D) NEVER bolt by cracks whats the matter with you! E) MUCH of the fortess has been climbed even if undocumented-you dont see bolts becuase they are used SPARINGLY. F) Have some respect for those that established this incredible place, like TM HERBERT ok!?
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Jan 26, 2011

Ron is spot on, kiddies. I see patina plates that can either take nuts in between them or creative slinging and a few cracks that can take pro. Perhaps a bolt would be needed on the upper section but that can easily be done on lead.....with good natural pro below.

Guys.....I suggest you do your homework before you set out and do something like this again. I wouldn't be surprised to see this route get the big chop!
By Laine Christman
From: Reno, NV
Jan 26, 2011

Bolts were only placed where no crack exists. Supplemental gear is needed where cracks do exist. The crack next to the lower section is a climb in its own right and to protect it and climb the arete would cause serious injury if one was to fall. A common rap station for all the routes was placed at the top of OWOY. Cheers!
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 27, 2011

Per Michaeld's comment about Woodfords being "totally all trad"...have you climbed there much? Numerous bolted sport routes abound.

Edited to add: Also, how does Dan Osman's Epoxy Wall fit into this whole Woodfords ethic? (I don't know if it still exists as I've never gone up there, but it was put into the guide so it must have been deemed 'acceptable'!) Just wondering.
By Ron Anderson
Jan 28, 2011

First, I must make myself completely clear..I would like to commend the first ascentionists for their exploratory attitude- that's what woodfords is about! My point here was not to just bash someones effort, but to shed light on the history of the canyon, which i hold dear. Rap bolting can be a very easy thing to get into, but it cheats the rock and ones self from a better and deeper experience. Yes there are areas that are well designed for such tactics, but the canyon isnt and hasn't been one of them. There are routes there that would SEEM to have been rapped in, but in essence took tons of supplemental tactics and work to be done ground up, and the route was much the better for it. Weve all screwed the pooch here or there, and im certainly no different, so we talk about our experiences in hopes to save someone else from such tribulations.

As far as the Epoxy wall goes, it was intended as an out door GYM which it was. It did NOT set the standard for the canyon- it was simply a brain child of Danos which was thought to be a very cool thing by all around at the time. Routes were still going in ground up after and before the epoxy wall...Thinking before drilling is a good exercise...
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 30, 2011

Although I understand where you're coming from a la the "standards of the majority," here Ron (and certainly to think about quality of lines involving bolts vs quantity, something I do not disagree with), to make a single route put up by someone other than yourself into a pariah of the area and yet then claim that Epoxy Wall and the other "sixty routes [not included] in my guide due to questionable quality, or contrived situations etc etc,,(yeah some were mine too LMAO!)" IS a total logical fallacy. (As you know, that last quote of yours per Supertopo.)

Anyway, all we can do now is move onward and upward.

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