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That's a Moray 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eli Buzzell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Eli on Oct 12, 2015

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That's a Moray!

Description 

Climb up the slab to an obvious crack to the left of Amore Eel, and continue following a line of sloping jugs to a crunched mantle below a roof. Funky holds will yield an incredible double knee bar for you to place a pretty good .4 in the roof. Keep heading out right and either place a good small cam, or clip the third bolt on Amore Eel. From this point, continue up Amore Eel, clipping the last bolt and then the anchors. Rope drag could be a problem if you do not extend your pieces.

Location 

To the left of Amore Eel, scramble up a slab to a good crack and then traverse out right on sloping jugs.

Protection 

Single rack to .75, I only placed a .75, a .4, and a .3. There might be ground fall potential before you place the .4, but you also may be able to get in a second piece before I did.


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By Ladd
Administrator
Nov 1, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed this a few days after the FA on top rope solo. Not bad, but swing potential had be over gripping some moves that is retrospect could have been more enjoyable.

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