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Wall 1
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Slight Problem Along the Way T 
Another Quick Shower T 
Bar is Open, The T 
Cinquante Briques T 
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 
Come On, Animals! TR 
Dancing Like a Nutter T 
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 
Lovely Snowball T 
More Romantic than Casablanca T 
That Bastard Gérard! T 
You Old Fool T 

That Bastard Gérard! 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Alex Lau, 5/28/12
Page Views: 238
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014

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The start of "That Bastard Gerard" on th...

Description 

Start on the lower left side of the bulge ramp that diagonals Wall 1. Climb up and through an interesting crack feature, then take the direct line straight up and pass the right side of the oak tree 2/3rds of the way up and move over to the crack just right and head straight to the top. Two variations have you moving over either before the tree or after. Both fun. (See route topo.)

Protection 

A rack of singles to 4" and maybe a couple of extra finger-sized pieces (tri-cams or offset nuts work well, too).


Photos of That Bastard Gérard! Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The brilliant crack leading to the tree on the FA....
The brilliant crack leading to the tree on the FA....
Rock Climbing Photo: Trevor Marks just passing the tree (on a much clea...
Trevor Marks just passing the tree (on a much clea...

Comments on That Bastard Gérard! Add Comment
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By Robert Holder
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not a lot of options for pro down low (there are good places, just keep your eyes open). Great climbing, especially the top half, where the cracks become more continuous.

(like most of the wall, you don't need to jam/lock if you don't want to; plenty of good features on the face).