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Upper Spire
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Arete Route T 
Beast of No Nation T 
Burnt Offerings T 
Cabin Fever S 
Char Broiled T 
Crispy Critters TR 
Desperado (Roof Variation) T 
Dot to Dot T 
Fear of Flying T 
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Harrison Direct Variation T 
Holy Smoke T 
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Lesbian Love S 
Necklace Traverse "direct" T 
North Ridge T 
Robert's Aid Crack T 
Smokehouse Brown T 
Steppin' Stone T 
T-Bone S 
Thanksgiving T 
Up for Grabs T 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Aidan Maguire (?)
Page Views: 246
Submitted By: Scott T on Feb 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Just past the lower (bolted) crux on Thanksgiving.

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb the first 20 feet of Steppin' Stone, exiting the dihedral and turning the arete on the right at a bolt. Cruise up past a downward facing flake and continue easily to a rest and a small right facing ramp/corner. Bust left out of the corner to a splitter finger crack which continues to the anchor. This is the first belay of Desperado, just before the roof. Lower or rap off.

Moving onto the face at the bolt is the 9 crux...pretty insecure and barndoor-ish. Might be easier to step down to a break, then onto the face. Maybe a 9 move in the finger crack up higher.


East face of The Upper Spire


Up to a #2 Camalot. Extra in the yellow alien to .75 Camalot size. Bring yer small/smallest wires for the final finger crack.

Long slings before and on the bolt will minimize a lot of drag and keep your rope off of a rough edge on the arete.

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By Aidan Maguire
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route now has it's own direct start. It now stays to the right of the Stepping Stone start. a small flake broke at the crux and is probably now rated 10a. A #3 camalot is handy for the roof after bolts
By Cam Parry
From: Angwin, CA
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

No kidding on the small wires at the top! There is a placement for a blue (#3) Camalot down low - just before pulling over the corner - but all the rest of the gear is smaller. Think wires and 0.75 Camalots or below. Leave the heavy stuff at the base.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Oct 13, 2013

Is this route misnamed? Isn't this the "East Face"? It has a scary offwidth at the top.
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Oct 14, 2013

By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 30, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

No need for any big gear to the bolted anchor. The upper "finger crack" wasn't much of a finger crack for me. Too small to get my fingers in. More like a seem that takes small-medium stoppers for pro.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 19, 2016

We thought the upper crux was comparable in difficulty to the lower crux. Either way, this is very enjoyable climbing with thoughtful knob climbing and jams and two bolts right where they are needed. One of the larger RPs slotted perfectly in the high laser thin crack, otherwise, pro beta of fingers-sized cams to #1 camalot with a single #3 camalot suffices nicely. Plenty of stopper placements.

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