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Thanksgiving Rock Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2007

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Description 

P1: Go up a left-trending gully system to a loose block, then move up and leftward under a small roof. Continue up the shallow dihedral above to a large ledge, (or, the featured face just to the left of the dihedral). From this ledge, either (a): continue straight up the next 20' of climbing still in the same pitch, and then belay in a grassy area with some dead trees below the steep 5.8 face with the old bolts and pins. Alternatively, from the large ledge, (b): traverse right and go up a 3rd/4th class gully to the same stance below the 5.8 face, 100'.

P2: Step first up and right, then move back left, to the 30' vertical face which has 2 fixed pins for pro and 3 hangerless 1/4" bolts (bring hangers or use wired stoppers on these). You can supplement the ancient pins with gear. Belay at a large block. This puts you at the top of the buttress.

Scramble down a 3rd class slot to the left, or rappel the main face.

Location 

This climb, the leftmost documented route on Thanksgiving Rock, begins 60' uphill and left of the toe of the Thanksgiving Rock buttress, on the first place on the N side of the formation that looks worth climbing. Identify an obvious leaning diagonal crack to cue in on the start.

Descent: downclimb 3rd class down a sloping slot to the N of the buttress. There is also a new rappel route down the center of the buttress. See this page for details.

Protection 

3 hangerless 1/4" bolts and 2 pins are fixed on the 2nd pitch.

Rack: A small rack up to a #2 camalot should be enough.


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By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Aug 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The line with the stripped bolts and pitons is on the left side of the face on pitch 2; it is hard to see these from the ledge. The route felt like solid 5.8, and is made no easier by the spooky protection.

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