|Original:||YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jeff Scheuerell on Jan 20, 2015|
|Comments on Thanks for the Mammaries||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Martin Oliver
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Really fun climb, well bolted and good holds. I liked that the route didn't just end when the hardest climbing ended by continued up through the lower angle easier climbing.|
May 9, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|There's a reason why some routes have never been developed in the Gorge: this route is one of them. Arguably one of the flakiest and worst jobs of cleaning- or lack of to be found. It makes one wonder: what were they thinking...or not!|
By Vlad S
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|Yes, it's a tiny bit crumbly at the upper crux, but will probably clean up enough in the future to be pretty classic. The movement on this one is very fun and pockets at the end are just perfect. It's unfortunate that the choss is so close on the left side. I'm not sure that it would be possible to clean it better since that kind of rock just keeps crumbling more the more you remove.|
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 26, 2016
Yes what were they thinking??? Maybe that when they first put a tr on it they really enjoyed the climbing. Maybe if it were bolted they would climb it again and again. That other than the thin start, there are great holds the rest of the way to the top. That if one saw choss out left they would not go out left. Sure it could be cleaned up for those that want to color outside the lines but if you stay between the lines it climbs quite well. That being said I will make an effort to clean more of the choss out left.
Also it is fairly easy to get from the anchors of Show Us to the anchors on this route to give it a tr.
Also their thinking was correct, have climbed this route a dozen times after bolting it and it puts a smile on my face every time. So to me...worth it.