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South Peak - West Face
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Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
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Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
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Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 7,504
Submitted By: John Peterson on Jul 29, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...


This excellent climb ascends the corner just left of Conn's West. It starts in the center of the wall and eventually traverses left into the top of the corner.

P1: climb up the center of this face with no particular line. Aim for base of an obvious chimney. 80', 5.5.

P2: Climb the suprisingly enjoyable chimney. Where it pinches off, step left and continue up the same crack system to a belay alcove. 80', 5.6.

P3: This is the business. I suppose this is a Seneca 5.6 but it had me a lot more gripped than many harder routes. Traverse left on the steep face to the big corner and climb up to a belay above the difficulties. There's plenty of pro but hanging out on the steep face to put it in was definitely exciting. The hardest part for me was finding the easiest line - there's chalk all over the place. I wound up going straight left from the fixed pin above the belay to the corner, ignoring the temptation to climb up prematurely. 50', Seneca 5.6.

P4: up to an obvious weakness, left along the ledge and then up through a tree to the top. 100', 5.4.


Start at the center of the face just left of Conn's West.


Standard Seneca rack

Photos of Thais Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 of Thais
Pitch 3 of Thais

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By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Oct 22, 2007

On P3 you can escape right around the corner to end up on the ledge with the rappel tree and the end of Westpole. I've done the escape a few times to avoid climbing the gully to the summit.
By Mike Phillips
From: Pittsburgh
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

From the belay ledge at the top of P2, you can make it to the gully between the summit and the big flake of the west face in one pitch. I tried this because following the route to the left and into the gully seemed awkward. The rock quality just continues to get worse the higher you go if you go straight up however and, because of this, I would not recommend this. Next time I'll probably try the established escape variation to the climber's right.
By BigRed11
Jun 10, 2013

The second pitch is fantastic and very fun. Be aware that if you choose to do the escape, the final belay ledge is too far around the corner from the belay at the top of pitch 2 to communicate by voice.
By Jeff Klassen
From: Eppstein, DE
Oct 7, 2013

The chimney variation was a blast for P2. Would recommend.
By Andrew G
From: Silver Spring, MD
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Full value 5.6, for sure. Great variety on this climb. I ran the 3rd pitch to the gully just below the summit for a ~120' pitch and that worked out fine for me. Rope drag was a little bit of an issue, but not too bad. As Mike mentions, the rock quality takes a decided turn toward chossy for the last 20' or so before the summit gully, but the climbing also dials backs to 5.easy and you can work left to better rock.
By Matt Rhodin
From: Denver, CO
Mar 15, 2015

starting from the bottom of the chimney you can probably make it to the westpole anchor in one pitch with a 70m rope by taking the escape at the top of pitch 3. When I did the route, I didn't know where I was going so I built an anchor on the sloping ledge at the beginning of the escape (little did I know I was about 30 feet from the top). It would be close, but my follower seemed pretty sure it would go.
By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

As of 8/14/15, there was a completely loose piece of rock about 2'x2'x8" on P3, after coming out of the main corner, 15" before the pine tree with a green bird house on it. There were climbers at the base of Thais, so I did not pull it off the wall.
By craigerv
From: Burlington, VT
May 2, 2016

The Horst guidebook says to belay on the sloping ledge on the outside of the corner at the top of pitch 3. I believe this is where you can escape to the top of Westpole. For pitch 4 it says to climb back to the inside corner but I did find climbing back around the corner to be a real challenge. Felt like a 5.9 sort of layback while doing the splits to get back into the corner from the sloping ledge. I'd recommend staying in the corner and belaying from a ledge a little higher up than the escape.
By Mashanya
Jul 17, 2017

2 60 meter ropes get you to the ground with 2 rappels (1 short, second long)

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