REI Community
Hermit's Cave
Select Route:
Thai Cookin' T 

Thai Cookin' 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Hiroki Ide, William Penner, and Eric Whitbeck (Fall 1998)
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 1,248
Submitted By: William Penner on Apr 5, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Vintage route topo apparently created by a child w...


P1: Begins in a left-facing dihedral and climbs for 40 to 50’ to a small roof. Pull the roof (5.9) to a good ledge with 1 bolt and gear placements. Belay here.
P2: Climbs a left-facing dihedral for 30’ to a large overhang. Climb through the overhang (5.11d) clipping 2 bolts along the way. Easier terrain follows trending left to a 2 bolt belay on a ledge.
P3: Climbs sparsely protected rock to a dihedral straight above the belay. Follow the dihedral for 50 to 60’ until near the base of a very distinctive, large triangular roof. Clip a bolt then traverse right and up for 20 to 30’ until another bolt is reached. From here continue up and right following the good holds past another bolt and a steep bouldery section (5.11c). From this last bolt move up and right into a left-facing dihedral with a hand crack that ends at a ledge. Traverse 10’ left around an arete to a 2 bolt anchor.

P4: Traverses 5’ left to climb a corner then traverses left past a bolt to a ledge on an arete. Crank straight up past two more bolts then follow an undercling to the right, climb a left-facing dihedral for 10 to 15’ until you can climb out of the dihedral onto the face on the right. Delicate face moves lead right and up to a final bolt (5.11d) then into a shallow crack for another 30 to 40’ until a very large ledge is reached with a tree at the back.


Approach as per the description for the Hermit's Cave. Once you get to the two flat boulders in the middle of the talus slope below the main cliff, turn around to the east and look for slings on the route.

Rap off the top of pitch 4 using two ropes using slings around a tree (bring something long to replace this webbing as it has not seen a human in 13 years) and the two-bolt anchors atop P2 and P3. I can't remember if you can cheat and rap with a single 70 m rope since those were not common when we put up the route. Alternatively, you could keep going up less than appealing low-angle rock for a couple hundred feet to the summit and then walk back to the south passing the many crosses on the summit and eventually drop back to the base passing the Hermit's Cave.


Standard rack with doubles of smaller nuts or RPs. I don't remember needing anything larger than a 3 Friend. Bring long slings for the traversing and some QDs for the bolts.

Photos of Thai Cookin' Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Map for approach
BETA PHOTO: Map for approach

Comments on Thai Cookin' Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Whitbeck
Apr 20, 2012

What no repeats of this route? We thought we were putting up another Prince of Darkness and that it would be mobbed on every weekend.
By magoo
From: Duke City
May 4, 2012

I assumed there would be a line of parties waiting to jump on this thing....that's why I haven't done it. And also 'cause I know you sandbaggers too well.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About