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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Baker
Page Views: 15,358
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on May 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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An unforgettable experience climbing Tez during a ...

  • Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is short, kinda silly, and the climbing is not particularly memorable. However, the approach is a nice hike, with great views, the glade/meadow where this feature is located is a very cute little spot, and the feature itself is a ridiculous shape; a penguin with a blindfold. Maybe it's a labrador puppy. it's very friendly anyway.Approach by hiking up a ledge/stratum from your car. Up and up and up, until you summit the highest point of the ridge. Then contour down (north) and around to enter the penguin's garden.The route begins up a short crack. This is allegedly 5.5, in Bjornstad's book. Hmmmm. You can avoid this by a runout face bit to the right; much more pleasant. I chose the wide crack, and struggled. The final short face is steep, ledgy and fun. See how far you dare step out onto the penguin's bill...Enjoy.


    A handful of quickdraws and a couple 4 to 5-inch cams for the start.

    Photos of Tezcatlipoca Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rick Norman on T-Cat.
    Rick Norman on T-Cat.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tower on the way to Tezcatlipoca
    Tower on the way to Tezcatlipoca
    Rock Climbing Photo: An incredible approach and fun exposed climb with ...
    An incredible approach and fun exposed climb with ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tezcatlipoca April 29, 2012
    Tezcatlipoca April 29, 2012
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shameless on the slabby face climbing near the top...
    Shameless on the slabby face climbing near the top...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa Foster on the somewhat awkward chimney start.
    Lisa Foster on the somewhat awkward chimney start.
    Rock Climbing Photo: view straight down on Jerry Harder enjoying T-cat
    view straight down on Jerry Harder enjoying T-cat
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route goes up the backside (not in the photo)
    The route goes up the backside (not in the photo)

    Comments on Tezcatlipoca Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 14, 2017
    By Tradkelly
    Jul 5, 2003

    And this is located where in the park??? Assume I don't have the guidebook you've listed as a reference. Thanks.
    By TuffGong
    Jul 27, 2003

    Get the guidebook! You will be supporting the climbing community and opening your mind to a world of classic climbs!
    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Oct 1, 2003

    Yes, of course... Get the guidebook and completely eliminate the purpose of this site. Get a job, man. I support the climbing community as much as I have the opportunity to (mountain clean-ups and the like), but it seems to me the purpose of this site is to provide concise information about climbs in/near Moab. For those of us who don't live there and can't drive there every weekend, a guidebook is hardly a worthy expenditure. Plus, having a print-out from this site and other like it means having something of a souvenir for an on-sight or whathaveyou. And finally TuffGong, you didn't have ANY qualms with posting three routes on the site with beta so far. Why the anxiety/reluctance to help out a fellow cragger/crack-er (no pun intended)?
    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Mar 11, 2004
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Sorry, I thought Peter Gram wrote out some pretty clear instructions as to how to get to Sunshine Wall. This is not in Arches National Park, it is just outside, immediately north. Simplest thing is to drive 17 (?-I forget exactly) miles north of Moab on 191 to get to the turn-off. The main parking spot is pretty obvious, at the far left end of the wall (the road starts to get rougher after this, and soon becomes real 4x4 after a quarter mile or so, and the hike approach is up the obvious slanting ledgey strata from close to the car up and right, just like it says. You can see the tower when you hike the bottom of the cliff, but you cannot access it from here.

    Maybe you don't want to spring for a guidebook, but I'd expect folks to read the Sunshine Wall page with Peter Gram's instructions before demanding more info here. The Visitor Center in Moab will give you a free Utah road map too. Browse the guidebook in Pagan or the Visitor Center and put it back on the shelf. Please, if you expect to get much out of desert climbing, be prepared to have to invest something. Either money in guidebooks, or else some time and effort. This ain't Shelf Road.

    Beter to think of this website as another resource for finding and enjoying desert climbs. It's not a guidebook. I don't think it's a replacement for a guidebook.
    By RoadTripRyan
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Dec 11, 2005

    When I did this, I placed a #4 Camalot at the top of the crack, a couple of TCU's in a horizontal crack below the drilled piton, then a quickdraw for the piton.

    Fun tower. Great setting.

    By TuFF GonG
    From: gunnison Colorado
    Oct 10, 2007

    Funny "handful of quickdraws" seeing there's only one bolt. Though the one bolt protects the route pretty well.
    By paul bucher
    From: moab, utah
    May 16, 2010

    easy to get to, easy to find the start to the approach. stick close to the drainage on approach and decent. a bit confusing upon arrival because you can not see the overhang. your looking directly at the route. can be done with 3 or 4 peaces. a big hex, a small cam, and a draw. #1 camalot optional. circle around south to good drainages to enter garden. new red sling as of this date on top, with nice bolts. this thing doe's not see a lot of accents. the booze bottle for the summit register was a nice touch. mando for the oddball tower rat or someone looking to scoop an easy one.
    By RIck Norman
    From: Glenwood springs, co
    Apr 16, 2011

    Make sure you know where you are going before hand. Took me a bit to find... excellent view once on top and a great lead climb for a beginner like myself.
    By Eric Odenthal
    Mar 10, 2012

    Finally ticked this cool looking tower. I parked at the naked women petroglyph, hiked 4 miles all the way around the bend, it's further than you think, then hiked half way back on the top. Made my way down into the canyon, felt way the hell out there. It's really short and I brought way to much gear. I rope soloed it, brought a #2,#3 camalot for the anchor at the bottom, worked my way up the OW, the then placed a .3 C3, clipped the bolt and was at the top. Other towers in the area look really good, and the climbs at the sunshine wall are fun. 8 miles total for 40' of climbing. Total adventure and great views the entire way. How much do you like hiking in sand??
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    May 1, 2012
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Fun climb and actually worth the hike, especially since it's such a nice hike. Watch the Crypto!

    Have to agree with the guidebook on this one, definately the easiest offwidth/chimney I've ever climbed. The friction in the crack and on the slab is excellent. The crux at the top is a little technical so I'll split the difference. ;-)
    By TLob
    Mar 21, 2014

    If you enjoy beautiful hikes this is a must do. The climb is okay but the formation is awesome! In order to avoid crushing cryptobiotic soil on the bench as you head up stay left in the wash until you reach the uppermost point of the hike then scramble over the ridge and down to the "squat tower" in the description.
    By Josh Cameron
    From: California in my Mind
    Mar 31, 2015
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

    A good hike to a nice summit in a very cool location. But, the climbing was meh. The highlight was beers on the summit!
    By Keith W
    May 19, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Great hike to a beautiful spot. The climb was fun but definitely a one move wonder. We added some new webbing to the anchors up top. The old webbing looked ok but it was pretty clear it had been baking in the sun for some time.
    By nruea
    From: . . . CO
    Nov 25, 2016

    Great location. . . love it up there. . . and a nice ~2 mile hike from camp.
    Or climb one of those base cracks to access the upper level, and you're looking at .5 mile approach.
    Cool little formation worth scrambling up!
    By zaq
    Apr 14, 2017

    Climbed this a few weeks ago. The webbing at the top was sunbaked pretty good but still had some life left. I would suggest bringing new webbing and replacing it.

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