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Texas Tower

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East Face of Texas Tower T 
South Face T 

Texas Tower Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: USBRIT on Dec 9, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Texas Tower. Ross/Pheasent East Face Route.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Texas Tower is a monstrous tower far from any paved road. It has two known routes - a Tim Toula offwidth horror show and a new route by Paul Ross.

Getting There 

From Blanding drive 4 miles south to Rt95, and then about 10 miles to Texas Flat Road. Then about 2.5 miles the to canyon on the left(Arch Canyon). 4x4 road for 10 miles to the end of the road and the junction of Texas Canyon, a good camp site. The tower is 2 mile walk from here. Alternative approach is from canyon rim...

Climbing Season

For the Moab Area area.

Weather station 10.1 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Texas Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Texas Tower:
East Face of Texas Tower   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2     Trad, Aid, 7 pitches, 730'   
South Face   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Grade IV   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Texas Tower

Featured Route For Texas Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek Hersey on pitch 2 of South Face, December 19...

South Face 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Texas Tower
Climbs the obvious crack system on the south face of the tower.Pitch 1- Climb hands in a corner on the left side of a pillar. Above the pillar climb 5.9 loose to a belay with bolts.Pitch 2- Climb a 5.9 squeeze slot to a handcrack above then belay at bolts.Pitch 3- An awkward 10- move leads to a good squeeze chimney. Belay on large ledge with bolt.Pitch 4- Climb over blocks in chimney then make a stem move and hand traverse right to a good hand crack. Climb the handcrack past a scary loose spo...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Texas Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Texas Tower
Texas Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ross/Pheasant route. The East Face.Grade IV 7 ...
BETA PHOTO: The Ross/Pheasant route. The East Face.Grade IV 7 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Texas Tower showing the East Face
BETA PHOTO: Texas Tower showing the East Face

Comments on Texas Tower Add Comment
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 15, 2012
The available descent info on Texas Tower is a bit vague, or the descent is not obvious. Perhaps that adds to the experience.

When Josh S. and I climbed this in 4/09, we missed the 2nd rap station, left our own gear somewhere on the east face, but 1 rap later eventually joined up with the bolted anchors of the East Face route.

I thought maybe we were just chumps, but it looks like we weren't the only ones to get confused on the rappels, as I saw Kalous and Thesenga's trip report: thecleanestline.com/2012/03/te...
To their credit, they were in the dark and it was snowy.