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Black Hills Gold S 
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Texas Tea S 

Texas Tea 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, March 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 178
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Mar 20, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This testpiece climbs the improbable face to the right of Black Hills Gold, sharing the same lower-off anchor.

The rock is grainy, but the sequences are quintessential Josh: perplexing and tricky, with funky combinations- like a series of boulder problems.

Over time, I think this route will clean up nicely since it's easy to toprope off the Black Hills Gold anchor by swinging over to the right and clipping the top 3 bolts while lowering down after leading Black Hills Gold.

No move harder than around 11b, but a very tough onsite due to the ultra tricky sequences.

Protection 

6 bolts, plus optional .25 to .4 inch CDs at the horizontal crack between the 3rd and 4th bolts. These are blind placements (I preplaced these on the first ascent).


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