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East Face of Buzzard's Roost
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aquatic Anxiety T 
Fear of Flying T 
Little Feat T 
Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go) S 
Shrike T 
Snatch T,TR 
Texas Crude T 
Unsorted Routes:

Texas Crude 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Lyons
Page Views: 3,890
Submitted By: sirhctrebor on Dec 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Jason gives Scott a catch as he begins the tight h...

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Texas Crude is a fantastic steep crack that is easily protected and soaks up many slightly tight hand jams.


Texas Crude is one of the far left climbs on the East Face. Find Fear of Flying (splitter, tall, and wide crack in dihedral), and look left for steep hand crack that begins on a small boulder step.


Bring a small E-Rock rack heavy on the #1 Camalots. There are no anchors up top, but you can scramble up and far right to find the descent trail, which leads you to the far right base of the East Face.

Photos of Texas Crude Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Travis cleaning Texas Crude
Travis cleaning Texas Crude
Rock Climbing Photo: Great jams, nice light
Great jams, nice light

Comments on Texas Crude Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2007

Best practice for jamming in the park. Run many laps on this so you can be strong when you get out of texas.
By Bjorn
From: Leadvegas, CO
Mar 25, 2009

I have always felt this is the best crack in the Fear of Flying alcove and one of the best in the park. Kicks FOF's ass for sheer crack climbing bliss.
By Garth Magee
Aug 6, 2012

I belayed the first ascent. Chris insisted on doing it barefoot. Crude indeed....
By Tao Techakanon
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Jan 15, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You're gonna wanna tape up for this one. Great climb!
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Nov 30, 2016

There's a good horn of rock on the flake slab thing above the route to build an anchor for belaying up a second. Doubled up from .75-2 with one 3 and one 4 for this. Didn't need them all
But that felt like a comfortable rack for me.

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