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Texas Chainsaw Massacre 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Chris Cantwell, Augie Klein 1980
Season: Year round
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: King Tut on Sep 20, 2017

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Description 

This route lies between Y Crack and Poker Face and can be hard to see from the ground perched above a large dirty corner left of Poker Face (not King-Snake, TCSM is further left). The first pitch goes up a scruffy corner to a tree, with some rotten rock above the tree for kinda shyte pro then traverses a few slab moves (5.10, PG13) to the right lead to the belay ledge at a flake for the second pitch. This pitch is not very high quality and the 3 star rating is for the second pitch only.

The second pitch (5.11a) is best done as a face climb at the thin start concentrating on your feet, then is solid 5.10+ classic endurance fingers to the end. About an 80' pitch IIRC.

Micro Wires, plenty of small wires (ie BD 5-8 or so) and TCUs useful.

A Cantwell classic and must do on the Yose fingers circuit. Harder and steeper than Mr. Natural, but still a splitter slab finger crack. 3+ stars/4 stars.

Protection 

Micro wires to small cams. PG 13 for the first pitch.


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