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Dr. Faust S 
Nordwestweg T 

Teufelsturm Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.7254, 21.6267 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: WAGbag, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 9, 2009
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Looking north from Doupianifels. Teufelsturm is t...


Teufelsturm has four routes to the top all have at least some bolts, but all require gear. There is a bolted rappel route on the western side of the peak.

All routes on Teufelsturm require two ropes to descend. Be very careful to find the proper rappel. There is also a bolted ring on the summit in a flat section. It is virtually impossible to pull your joined ropes over the rough rock between the ring and rappel--believe me ascending your ropes to re-rig your rappel is no fun. The correct rappel point is very near to the edge.

Getting There 

Accessing Teufelsturm is a harrowing bushwack. Everything that grows in the countryside around Meteora has thorns, spines or burrs. The routes are rarely climbed--when we got to the summit, the last entry in the summit book was from months earlier.

From the road between Kastraki and Meteora, walk 100 yards past where the road passes Dupianifels on the left. The road veers right here. Follow any trail you can find back toward Metamorphosis monastery while making sure that you stay to the left of Aghios Nikolaos Anapafsas monastery. Follow a semi-dry creek and goat trails up the valley to Teufelsturm.

Climbing Season

For the Greece area.

Weather station 40.1 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For Teufelsturm
Rock Climbing Photo: Dr Faust climbs the slab on the left of the tower ...

Dr. Faust 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Europe : Greece : ... : Teufelsturm
This route climbs the skinny southwest face of Teufelsturm and puts you a stone's throw from the Metamorphosis monastery. It has solid, clean rock after the first pitch and stays in the shade in the morning.Two routes share the shallow, crux concavity on the first pitch. After pulling through, keep going diagonally left, then up to stay on Dr. Faust. Pitches 2,3, and 4 are more or less straight up from the anchors, but keep a careful eye out to spot the bolts. Pitch 4 ends on a pedestal on the r...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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